The Derby Shoes I don't Understand

I don’t mean I don’t know how Derby shoes look like or how to pair it, but how deep Americans love Derby shoes.

I cannot find concrete information about this topic, and we can have a discussion.

My principle point of view is Derby shoes are casual and informal.

When I pair Derby shoes with suits, I am twisted even devastated. I don’t know if others have the same feeling as mine, but I firmly believe if you compare the outfits head-to-head, you agree with me.

There are many tutorials on internet to teach how to distinguish Oxford and Derby, the bottom end of shoelace area is close or open, right? OK, let us have a look at this pair.

Clearly, this is an innovative mixture, and the answer is this is a pair of Derby. Reason? Although the bottom end of shoelace area is closed, but the two ears are not linked together.

There are three folklores about the invention of Derby shoes.

Invented in 12th century by Earl of Derby born in Robert de Ferrers.
Earl of Derby modified Oxford to Derby due to his uncontained high instep in 14th century.
Prussian general Gebhard leberecht von blücher to comfort the feet of soldiers after hard days with loose upper in Napoleonic Wars in 19th century. That is why Derby is called Blucher in US.

No matter which one is true, two things are certain: 1) Derby was boots rather than shoes at the beginning. 2) Purpose of invention is for higher instep.

From shoemaking perspective, shoe tongue of Derby is one piece with upper, while Oxford’s tongue is a separate piece of leather.

Derby shoes have a lot of names, such as Darby in UK, Blucher in US, Gibson for ladies. The unequalled bespoke shoemaker, John Lobb St James uses Navvy for Derby and more specifically split toe Derby.

Until later 19th century, Derby changed from boots to shoes and its function was for sporting and hunting. It was only accepted as city shoes in early 20th century.

Today, you can find any exquisitness from Derbies, from the ultra rough Triple Welt to elegant Arca.