Berluti is the first brand I have bought and makes me enter the door of classic dress shoes world. It is quite natural that when you don’t know something, you care about the reputation or vanity it brights. And Berluti is the number 1 without doubt. In the meantime, it is better looking than most dress shoes in the market when I knew nothing about how good looking dress shoes can be.
Today, it is nearly impossible I buy another pair of Berluti because the lasts are not in my taste, such as the iconic Demesure is too long for me. But most importantly, the price is sky high and I cannot afford it.
This pair split toe derby is my latest one.
Pattern
Split Toe Derby is so common that maybe every shoe enthusiast has one or two pairs at least, however, Berluti is never the one who follows others.
Firstly, the split toe is longer than normal English shoes, and more alike the ones Italian brand Paolo Scafora and Austrian brand Sanit Crispin’s express.
This pair of Berluti is not as super long as Paolo Scafora, however it is never as boring as the conservative and classic shoemakers.
The other thing is the split toe is butt stitched and the overlap ridge is extensively skived to achieve a more smooth effect.
Lastly, the most special part of this pair is the apron. I have seen so many different expression here and Chinese brand Mattina has shared a collection of stitch method here. But Berluti cannot be covered as it always innovates, always leads the way and always jumps out of the box. It turns the center leather edge out, then presses this turned up edges with outer ring of leather and stitches.
The final effect? A piece of missing tile on the floor.
Berluti is more or less a high fashion brand, recent models are all aggressive and Avant Garde. But if we closely look at its making, a lot of interesting and daring innovations are present, such as laser printed love letter, a scar smile, a wind underneather the upper. As a conservative shoe consumer, this designs are off, however they are new and impactive.
Last
I am not very familiar with Berluti lasts, this one is quite round.
Leather
The patina is quite beautiful, purple fades into grey.
Venezia leather is the branded name Berluti promotes and it is unclear which tannery is supplying it at least to me. The leather is very fine and it takes colour great which is the reason Berluti loves it.
Construction
Blake stitched. Function wise, I care none of construction any more, however different construction normally gives different aesthetics, such as Goodyear is more sturdy and Blake sleek.
The fudge is very fine and exquisite.
Even the heel is fudged and we can say Berluti cares about its products.
Outsole
Iconic thick rubber sole.
I kind of love this sole as it raise my very pathetic height. That is also the reason I don’t care about its Blake stitching construction. I hate sleek, not any construction.
You can see three layers from the profile. The top layer is midsole of Blake construction, and middle layer is the leather outsole if there is no rubber outsole foremost, then it is the thick rubber sole. Clearly the middle layer leather sole is not necessary, however Berluti uses it.
Conclusion
Berluti may not be my first choice due to its aggressive designs, but I admire its innovations so much.