I had an interview with the famed Japanese bespoke shoemaker Hiro Yanagimachi. As the pioneer Japanese shoemaker studying in England, he is very kind and willing to bring up new younger shoemakers which is very respectable.
I am not so familiar with his MTO offerings, and the price is slightly higher than Yohei Fukuda if the same construction and details are chosen.
As not a fan of his temporary small round toe and this pair is just for collecting.
Let us have a look.
Shoe Box
A tiny logo in the middle of the box cover which speaks explicitly Japanese. As minimalist is regarded luxury in a sense, it inspires maybe local brands to follow.
The material of the shoe box is not very tough and colour is earth tone.
Shoe bag colour is off the box and very bright yellow. There is a small piece of leather stitched on the bag and says Bespoke Shoemaker, Hiro Yanagimachi, Tokyo.
Most shoe bags we see today are from Ready To Wear brands and the logo is printed. But bespoke shoemakers love to follow the very ancient practice with a leather piece.
Pattern
It is hard for me to describe this pair, not because it is too unique nor complex with too many details, contrarily, it is so simple that there is no model name for it in so many years. So the best thing I can do is to call it a plain toe oxford, yes I know, it nearly says nothing.
Why does it happen?
To describe a pair of shoes, most focus on the toe to instep pattern, such as cap toe and wingtip for the toe, and Adelaide, Balmoral and Saddle for the instep area. Swan neck is also a candidate however its popularity and fame is not at the same level with the aforementioned three.
But when the pattern goes to the back, I seldom read any names. To be fair, the pattern of this pair is so universal that you may see it on almost every Ready To Wear brands, but many it is too normal, it bears no name, how sarcastic.
As a pair of high end handmade shoes, the heel is seamless. I am not so keen into technique, but the clean and smooth heel does inject beauty and elegance to the shoes.
Last
I have been following Hiro Yanagimachi for awhile, and his round toe seems fit my taste till one day one of his client told me, his toe is not that round as the picture shows.
I came to realize that his toe is too sharp for me.
Japanese shoes is wider than European peers while the transition and skeleton from widest area to sharp toe are still harmonious. This is where Japanese shoemakers are best at.
Leather
The front upper leather is burgundy or maybe reddish brown. Quarter is dark brown. Creases are both fine.
Although I don’t have many pairs of Japanese handmade shoes, I saw a lot of photos on the net, and I am very curious about why their leather quality is so good and stable.
Construction
Yohei Fukuda MTO is machine stitched outsole, and Hiro Yanagimachi is hand stitched. The fudge is not very clear and the SPI is not bad, however the whole finishing looks antique.
There is a very unique detail that I only spot on Hiro Yanagimachi that the edge of the welt is like a fine step. He must have a special too for it.
Where welt connects in a circle is not finely executed.
Handlasting of the heel is not at the top level as the gap between heel upper and heel block is quite obvious.
Outsole
Big square waist, the default and entry configuration. The rubber piece of the heel is too big, at least to this level.
Shoe Tree
Lasted shoe tree is very luxury and the streamline is top notch.
Details
Brand on the half sock lining is printed then painted.
The dimples on the midsole indicate that this pair is handwelted. However does this pair or this brand needs any evidence to prove it is handmade?
Conclusion
I admire the passion of Thunder March and Jesper Ingevaldsson that they always have the interest to buy another pair although I am not sure their purchase is for content creation or collection, or just for joy.
My only appetit is reserved for blunt round cap toe oxford and loafer for summer. As long as the last is not my taste, I don’t appreciate owing them.