Austrian shoes are known all over the world thanks to Saint Crispin’s. In the early days of the spread of dress shoe information, most people knew luxury English shoemakers such as John Lobb, Edward Green and Gaziano & Girling, then Berluti in France. Corthay and Aubercy were not discussed online at the time. There are many Italian brands, but if there was a lot of discussion about which one, it was probably Silvano Lattanzi. With the rise of Antonio Meccariello, there are shoes that are more worthy of discussion. Eastern Europe, including Germany, is basically a desert of information, probably because of language.
When Saint Crispin’s first came out, it did cause an exclamation! Wood pegged waist, my God, is so soul inspiring. Fully handmade! British shoes are all made of machines at the same price, Saint Crispin’s worth the gold. The last shape is so different from other places in the world, with a unique flavor, and the upper design is also full of classicism. In addition, the network publicity is very powerful, and the sales skyrocketed.
The development is not without twists and turns, not to mention the parting of Zonkey Boots, Saint Crispin’s also has two slots, one is that the level of Crust leather fluctuates greatly, making people panic. The other is in his official production video, the outsole is sewn by machines, rather than all manual as advertised at the beginning.
In my opinion the final destination of clothing are two ends of the spectrum, one is practicality. That is good-looking, and good-looking is the most primitive (not the most primitive, the most primitive should be warmth and other functions) impulse to buy clothing. The other is vanity, to put it nicely, social values, such as Berluti, such as better example, Louis Vuitton.
After Saint Crispin’s heat has dissipated, it still has great merit in returning to practicality.
Take a look at this iconic pair of Loafers today.
Unboxing
Very eco-friendly shoe box. We have looked at J.M. Weston’s eco-friendly packaging, and then the shoe boxes used by Meermin are also made of recycled materials. Saint Crispin’s shoe box has remained in this state for a long time, and it is also very identifiable. The only thing is that it is not very sturdy.
Information on the side of the shoe box, style number 726. Leather Crust, color 611, seems to be burgundy. Lining STA, no idea what it means. Sole code GE8, I only know that it is a leather sole. Last Classic. Size 7F. F is Saint Crispin’s standard width.
Open the lid of the shoe box and see the print paper. The overall packaging feels simple.
Unfold the print paper, there is a small sachet inside, I didn’t smell it carefully, but this design is quite good.
The shoes are packed in black shoe bags. This is what I have said several times, since shoe bags are there, put the shoes inside. It seems that Saint Crispin’s shoe bag has no logo on it, only the drawstring is a ribbon with the logo.
Last
Saint Crispin’s has at least 6 or 7 lasts, but the Classic is the one I accept the most and the most recognized by the market. This is a large round-headed last! The round head is so large that I’m afraid Edward Green’s 202 is ashamed of itself. However, because of the addition of strong elongation elements, that is, a large number of Italian flavors blend in the Austro-Hungarian style, the last shape is very recognizable. Round but not simple, long but not sharp.
Pattern
This pair of 726 is Saint Crispin’s iconic loafers because it is a variant of Penny Loafer, Cross Loafer. This element has also been used in Japanese bespoke shoemaker TYE, and I can’t tell where the real original appeared. Saint Crispin’s Ready To Wear have been more widely spread, and thus higher exposure is certain. The first thing that comes to mind when I think of Cross Loafer is Saint Crispin’s.
In addition to this most visible point, there are two elements in upper design. One is the particularly long tongue and the other small apron. The latter makes toe cap stand out even more. The small apron is also a design feature that Saint Crispin’s has brought to the world. It’s not that other brands don’t have this feature, such as Paolo Scafora, which also has shoes with a particularly long split head, but it is Saint Crispin’s that consistently executes this design.
The heel design, which is a little funny, is a wide version of the “bandage”. A little wider looks better. It can also be made wider, and then there are different shapes, and then it is not functional, but a great sense of design.
Construction
The sole is sewn by machine and stitch density is average. What I’m not happy with is that the edge isn’t being processed. The edge is not chamfered or embossed, which makes the shoes less delicate.
This Cross loafer is obviously not rough, and lacking this element is not harmonious.
The waist is cinched very tightly, but this is because the waist is wood pegged and has no stitching.
Outsole
The iconic wood pegged waist.
Saint Crispin’s wood pegged waist was my first contact with this element. I really loved it at my first touch. The aesthetic experience is really fantastic.
After owning Maftei, I found that the arrangement of wooden nails could be made more elaborate and more beautiful.
And on Septieme Largeur, this element turned out to be a pure gimmick, not at all pretty-looking (too rough).
Shoetree
This hollow hinged shoe tree is also a gift from Saint Crispin’s to shoe lovers around the world.
In fact, the shoe support of most British bespoke shoes offer hollow hinged shoe tree as complimentary. Whereas in the field of Ready To Wear shoes, spring shoe tree is dominant. Spring ones have better versatility, while the hinged type only serve one size.
Hinged shoe tree has another disadvantage. When you take it out and put it in, you have to work hard. However, almost everyone prefer it due to its delicacy.
Even many brands at lower prices are beginning to use hinged hollow shoes.
Also sent “mothballs”, these little things really increase the sense of experience.
Details
The information of the shoe is on the tongue, except for the most important information, size, on the sole.
Summary
Saint Crispin’s is expensive, but the aesthetic value of this style makes me willing to pay for it.