In the leather shoes industry in recent 20 years, there are some famous Italian shoemakers. In my humble opinion, I think there are three, Stefano Bemer, Roberto Ugolini and Riccardo Bestetti. Although Silvano Lattanzi and Paolo Scafora are equally prominent as brands, they are not talked about as shoemakers alone.
Two of these three masters died young. Today, let’s take a look at Riccardo Bestetti’s experience.
Riccardo Bestetti was born in 1967 in the small town of Vigevano near Milan. Although he was born in Italy, where the footwear industry is extremely prosperous, the opportunity for him to start making shoes came from the distant United States.
In his twenties, he ordered a pair of cowboy boots, and the custom shoemaker, Pablo Jass, was in Texas, USA. It took Riccardo Bestetti more than a year to get these shoes. Such a long waiting time makes Riccardo feel strange and curious at the same time.
When he visited his brother in Los Angeles, he decided to visit Pablo. From then on, Riccardo fell in love with making shoes.
He first made boots for himself, because he was gifted, and soon he began to make a career of it. Five years later, he finally entered the orthodox bespoke dress shoes business.
His artistic talent is vividly displayed in shoemaking, and many vamp designs are classics handed down by later generations.
Such as Gladiator.
Such as the curved Captoe.
And its trademark extremely asymmetrical heel cup.
He died of lung disease in October 2016 sadly, leaving orphans and widows.
说起后跟包裹，一双鞋挂不挂脚就全看后跟了。我以前吐槽SOH的楦就是因为后跟包裹有点肥，加个半垫也只能算勉强应付过去。
那么为什么不把后跟上面收小一点呢，各个品牌
跟楦的设计有关系。比如CJ 325/335的后跟就有点松，但是348、337等楦后跟包裹就挺好。我试过SOH的圆头楦和方头楦，后跟都包裹都差点感觉，上个半垫好很多。
楦的设计真的有考虑后跟吗？