Shoes of Stefan is a quite new shoe shop in Norway, and Stefan’s background is so much alike mine, an Engineer who loves shoes unstoppably, and finally opened his own shoe shop bending to the calling.
Although the shop is new, the brands it carries are not unfamiliar to most shoe aficionados, Edward Green, Alden to name a few, and it offers unique makeups which you cannot find anywhere else.
I am very happy to talk with Stefan to know his story.
Could you tell us more about your hobby and life experience?
I have grown up in Oslo. Studied and worked in Japan for 3 years. Came back to Norway and started studying to be an Electrical Engineer.
I’m deeply interested in clothing and shoes, both casual and formal. Seeing and feeling the materials and making them up in good shoes or clothing. My preferences are quite broad, but you’ll usually find me in denim or trousers with a textured jacket.
I spend my summers fishing, autumn hunting, and winter skiing.
When did you fall in love with dress shoes?
My first experience with proper leather shoes was a pair of Prada zip boots in a beautiful dark brown leather with a nice medallion, Blake rapid stitched.
Seeing how those developed lit a fire in me, and after moving to Japan, I rapidly increased my collection of shoes. Better shoes.
A few years later I cut the Pradas open to see the insides, and they weren’t all that impressing. By that time I had tried several Allen Edmonds, Crocket & Jones, Enzo Bonafe and Edward Green, and had found the level of quality I was happy with.
Now, my collection consists of mostly Edward Green, Alden and Paraboot RTW. I have a couple of Santari MTOs. Some Sukesan samples that will definitely have their quantity increased. JM Weston 180 loafers. Enzo Bonafe Cary Grant in a dark brown elephant leather. A heavy engineer boot in natural Latigo leather from Clinch. And the gems of my collections, three pairs of Marquess bespoke oxfords, my first pictured below.
What I’ve learned over my time collecting is that preferences often change. At times, I have also tried out the more extreme, sharp shoes from certain makers. In the end though, I have kept to the makers that has the most balanced makeups, and what I consider to be worthy of the price. A few years ago I was lucky enough to gain some weight. My younger brother came well out of that, and I got lots of space in the wardrobe for more shoes.
As an engineer, my clothing at work is mainly casual. As noted, you’ll most likely see me with denim or trousers, and a nice jacket. Maybe some knitwear. More or less all my footwear works with that, apart from the formal oxfords. Like here with two good friends. On the feet from left to right: Edward Green Malvern, Hiro Yanagimachi full brogue oxfords, and Alden Cigar shell long wing bluchers.
How did you get the job in Skomaker Dagestad, and what was the experience there?
I had just moved back from Japan to study electrical engineering. The store was really close to the campus, and I had been a customer at Dagestad even before I moved to Japan.
I simply asked if he needed help, and this was the summer of 2013.
Dagestad needed help to digitalise various aspects of the business, which I did. Before I realised it, I was helping customers with fittings and helping them out as much as working in the background.
I soon started photographing shoes and putting them on the website as a catalogue. Made various social media accounts and started answering emails. The customer base increased a lot, and soon I had clients from all over the world ordering shoes and special makeups.
We grew a lot, and I think it’s safe to say we had a lot of fun. Numerous trips to England, Italy, and even a trip to Japan where we visited fantastic factories and a handful bespoke makers I knew from before, like Marquess, Yohei Fukuda and Fugee.
Clinch/Brass Tokyo factory/show room in Yokohama
You could say I was given, or took, a lot of responsibility and enjoyed it. I got to work with my favourite makers and create new models. I was involved in the entire business, selling, buying, communications, marketing, and administrative stuff. It was all very challenging and rewarding. Highlights was developing the offering with makers like Alden, Edward Green, Enzo Bonafe, and introducing new ones like Saint Crispin’s, Clinch/Brass Tokyo, Santari, Miyagi Kogyo, Foster & Son and Carmina. Dealing with special orders and MTOs is so much fun. Through my network and helping Hiro Yanagimachi to develop his international last, we even had Yanagimachi over for trunk shows in Oslo. I truly enjoyed working to establish Skomaker Dagestad as an internationally renowned store. You could say that all the joy created the passion for which I wanted to continue on my own.
Why did you choose to quit Skomaker Dagestad?
I quit Skomaker Dagestad first when I entered my first full time job as an engineer. We kept in touch though, and when things stalled at Dagestad in 2018, he asked me to help him in management, and to increase activity. For a while, that went really good, and things were moving up.
But all good things come to an end. As I have a full time job, I lost interest when the focus moved from what I’m passionate about – high end footwear. I had thought about it for a little over a year at that point, but I enjoyed working with my clients, colleagues, and the various suppliers too much to fully leave before that. And as one door closes, a new one opens.
Why was the calling from shoes so intense that you made a comeback?
I enjoy working with clients and suppliers on both single MTOs and new makeups. I admit that I’m a nerd. Trying out new combinations and always attempting to perfect the makeups brings me much joy.
I want to find both the best casual shoes formal shoes. Shoes styled in both the English, American and French shoe traditions.
Being an engineer I think I value functionality. There are a vast amount of options, and I enjoy thinking about them, and making up unique, functional makeups.
I enjoy talking to my clients. We discuss all the details in the world, and reach for perfection. The process with my clients is what makes this worth it. It’s definitely not for the money. Maybe that’s why I’m doing good with this new business – I enjoy talking with my clients, and really do my best to fulfill their needs.
As a one-man and quite young shop, how did you make the deal with these prestigious shoe brands all over the world?
Over the years I have tried out most makers I have sold, at the very least the ones I found worthy, as well as many others out of pure interest. There are several archetypes in the shoe world. The British, the American, the French and the Italian, and a handful of others. They all have their feats, and I like them all, but I do have my favourites, which my selection shows.
Late summer 2020, I thanked Alden and Edward Green for all the good times we had together, and how much I had appreciated their cooperation through the years. I was leaving Dagestad. At that time, I had loosely considered starting up something small like what I’m doing with Sukesan (Miyagi Kogyo), but nothing was decided. Upon telling them, I got the impression both Alden and Edward Green were interested in knowing if I started up something on my own. I was amazed to find out they wanted me to offer their shoes. They’re my two favourite makers. I suppose they believe in me and think I will be a positive force in them reaching end customers without compromising on their identity. It also helps that that we have a long relationship of mutual trust, and I truly consider Alden and Edward Green representatives to be great friends.
At that point I decided to put in my savings, buy some stock, and slowly build up a new business.
You offer very unique Makeups from these well-known brands, what is the style you try to bring up?
Both Alden and Edward Green makes fantastic shoes and their repertoire is huge. What I find special about the two is the balance – the visual weight – that always is perfect. I do want my take on the makeups, though. Seeing as I enjoy everything from work boots to formal shoes, I’m quite flexible on the kind of makeups I’m willing to make.
I try to come up with balanced makeups, the last, the leather and texture, the sole, the welt, the construction and the visual weight. Setting those together in a esthetically pleasing way without compromising the functionality I wish for in the shoes.
My goal is to make the shoes that both someone with a small shoe wardrobe or a collector that owns more than he’s able to wear want to put on when leaving home. My goal is to create favourites that get worn. That are made to be worn. I don’t make shoes for them to be put on shelves.
Do you stock a lot of shoes or mainly MTO to keep cash under control?
I stock some, especially Alden. I also stock Edward Green, Paraboot and Sukesan. With Edward Green I restock quite often but keep selling out. I try to always keep enough shoes in store for clients to try.
But rather than focusing on stocking so much, I prefer making more runs of GMTOs that sell out. That’s what I enjoy, and I believe that’s what my clients enjoy too.
Could you tell us more about Santari Tokyo, as your shop may be the only place to order this brand. How did you make contact with them? What is the selling point of this brand?
I got in touch with Atsushi Tate of Santari many years ago, through a Japanese gentleman with the name of Daisuke Yamashita. At that time I was still at Dagestad.
I spoke with Atsushi about making a really high end MTO service – as close to Japanese bespoke as possible, while keeping a price that wouldn’t go much over an MTO from the high end makers from Europe.
Many of the high end makers around often compete to make sharper and pointier shoes. They are pleasing to look at on the shelves, but with my size 11 feet, I often find these pointy shoes looking comically long. I’ve never gotten used to the look, and much prefer a little wider and shorter front, within limits.
We worked on creating a last that keeps the width further in the front, with a pleasing round toe-shape. The last allows for more space in the front, for the toes, while it has a firm grip around the instep, arch and heel. This look, combined with Atsushi Tate skillful hands, we’re able to offer a handwelted shoe with handstitched true beveled waist at the ex vat price of approximately 11500-12500 NOK.
They’re classic. Skillfully made. Probably made to a higher standard than any RTW I’ve ever seen. Atsushi is so thorough in his making that this is fantastic product for those wanting something very special. For one client, we created a split toe derby with seamless back, making the only thing not making it a seamless wholecut being the pie crust. The flexibility of these orders is something I’ve dreamt about for years.
What is the biggest challenge in this business?
My biggest challenge is definitely time. But I enjoy what I do, so it really feels more like a hobby than work. If it was not, I wouldn’t be doing it.
For the shoe business as a whole, I think all stores have different challenges. Style and preferences change. As we see more and more shoe purchases coming through online channels, it may be a challenge to offer correct sizing advice. Fitting is very personal. I read stuff on online forums I most definitely don’t agree with, and everyone has an opinion. Every time I ship out a pair to a customer that has not purchased from me before, I’m genuinely scared of them not fitting well. Not because I’m afraid of a possible return, but because I want my clients, that put their faith in my advice, to have the best possible experience. Does my client know and understand how the shoe ought to fit? Have I been able to explain that in a good enough way? Will he tell me if it doesn’t feel good? Luckily, my clients are the best and we communicate well. My fitting advice seems to be helping out good too. My long experience of fitting in store, as well as vast experience in wearing various makers myself, probably helps me out. I invest a lot of time in helping clients find their right size.
What is your plan for the next few years?
My plan for the next couple of years is to continue what I do now. As long as I keep making up cool stuff, more people will become aware of what I do, and it will be possible to create more group orders. I’m also focusing on building up a little more stock of Alden and Edward Green. I keep an open mind and look into new makers too, but I have to say I’m pleased with the situation I have now.
I’ll try out more fun things too, like the recent sock collection.
As long as I’m enjoying what I do, I have no plans to stop!
Please say something to Chinese shoe lovers.
Some of you have already found me. Thank you! For those that haven’t, check out my Instagram and website for more information about me and what I do. What I really enjoy is working on new makeups, so don’t hesitate to reach out to me!
Wish you all the best for 2022!