Austrian Bespoke Shoemaker Maftei

Maftei One Piece

Maftei comes from Vienna Austria, the same country as more famous Saint Crispin’s. The shop locates at Kühnplatz 6.

Maftei is famous by its double-row sewing, Zwiegenäht construction. You can think of it as Norwegian sewing or chain sewing. Because shoemakers in Central and Eastern Europe prefer this sturdy and aesthetic construction.

Norweger
Zwiegenäht construction

Because it is genuine bespoke, all sewing is done by hand.

Another signature model sought after by everyone is the Seamless Wholecut Oxford.

Oxford
Seamless Wholecut Oxford

Maftei was founded in 1925. Mr. Maftei is the third generation of the family. All shoes start with making a unique shoe last for the guests. The construction can be handwelting or wood pegging, both of which are made by hand. At present, there are 40 shoemakers in his workshop.

Maftei family comes from Romania, which is a famous place for making shoes in Central Europe. Saint Crispin’s workshop is there.

Maftei is critical on raw materials, not only the upper leather, but also on unseen (by customer) things such as stiffener. The whole industry basically uses Celastic, a thermoplastic plastic. Maftei use vegetable tanned leather.

For filler between midsole and outsole, British sheomakers love to use cork, while Maftei chooses leather, a bit like Tramezza from Salvatore Ferragamo. Some say that cork is more comfortable and mould the foot. Others say that the leather midsole is hard at first, but it fits better later. Mr. Maftei thinks that leather filler is more comfortable. Mr. Maftei manifested by wearing shoes for 24 hours and walked for a long time, which was still very comfortable.

Double Leather Sole with Zwiegenäht construction

Maftei is extremely confident in the quality of his shoes, claiming that you can wear them for 10 years at least.

Maftei is the outworker for John Lobb St James. This shows peer recognition, recognition of quality.

For the perfect comfort, they have one thing that other Bespoke shoemakers don’t provide, that is, three pairs of trial shoes. Trial shoes are made according to your shoe last, but with cheaper leather, there is not much consideration in aesthetics, but for you to wear it for a week to feel what is not perfect. Then, put forward your revision opinions and adjust the shoe last.

Oxford 2
Viennese, the iconic model

All the top shoemakers I have heard of offer a pair. But Maftei offers triple. This is the pursuit of super fit and comfort.