History of Shell Cordovan Leather

Shell Cordovan leather is very sought after today, wallet, card case, belt and shoes are all cherished. Alden is famous for its shell cordovan shoes even it offers calf leather versions. But do you know the History of Shell Cordovan Leather?

Although this kind of leather, shell cordovan has been invented for centuries, it is not as old as most think making shoes. And even it was chosen for shoes in 20th century, it was not chosen, but left to no choice.

As early as 7th century, Visigoths living in Spain, France and Morocco invented the process of tanning shell cordovan.

In the tanning process, the leather was stuffed with grease and wax, plus the tightness of shell cordovan, the surface of shell cordovan has a feeling of plastic, very smooth and shiny, which was not the point, but the durability won over all other leathers.

The name Cordovan came from the city of Spain, Cordoba. In a long time, Cordoba was the leather tanning center of Moor Empire.

At beginning shell cordovan was used to make covering of Armory and shield. Until 18th century, shell cordovan was used to produce art pieces.

Into 19th century, shell cordovan gained mass popularity but for the purpose not many can guess, strap for sharpening the shaving blade. I know it is very strange that we think knife or blade can cut leather, and have no idea leather can sharpen knives. But that was the heyday of shell cordovan leather.

Then we see the demand for shell cordovan hugely plummeted. On one hand, horse was replaced by automobiles, but more importantly, blade was kicked out by a well known name, however, almost no one can figure out, Gillette.

 In 1900s, Gillette released safety razor and the need for sharpening blade suddenly vanished. Shell cordovan lost its most usage and demand.

The tanneries focusing on shell cordovan died a lot and the remained ones must figure out new demand of this leather. Shell cordovan was too hard to make shoes, and the tanneries sorted out ways to make it thinner and soft. One of them succeeded, Horween, the best buddy of shoemaker Alden.

This was really a bang in shoemaking as nobody had seen this before, this high shine leather before patent leather was invented.

Globally, which country loves shell cordovan the most? The answer is Japan, Japanese almost worship Alden shell cordovan shoes.

Next, is the original place, the US. But the peak was in 1950s to 1960s, now the love has faded very much.

England has prosperous shoemaking industry and also makes shell cordovan shoes, but by a little amount.

How much do Chinese love shell cordovan shoes? I think we come at the second place.