Wiracetas is a Shanghai based dress shoe brand that I only came into contact with last year. It operates a physical store for several years in Shanghai already, and the founder Qiu Wuping is a super veteran of the industry. More than ten years ago, in the era when it was easiest to make money in everyone’s mouth, he made a fortune by making Goodyear shoes.
But doing it for a long time is not the reason why I pay attention to it. In fact, in China, Wenzhou has a large number of handmade shoe workshops, while Guangdong has a considerable number of factories. I think most of them have no idea about brand awareness, and their products are a patchwork without a standard, although it is indeed Goodyear or even handwelted construction. This caused them to make a pair of Goodyear shoes that can be worn for a long time, but because they do not pay attention to the materials or details inside, so that in terms of comfort, no one wants to wear them for a long time.
After I got in touch with Wiracetas, I think that industry veterans do have insight and clear core competitiveness.
Even if Wiracetas shoes are only the level of those Wenzhou workshops and Guangdong factories mentioned above, it will still prosper because of its ability to adjust the last.
In fact, its shoes have also reached the mainstream level in China.
Wiracetas does not sell Ready To Wear shoes, of course, if you try it and feel very suitable and want to take it directly, no one may stop you, but he mainly provides two levels of service.
MTM, measure the foot, and change the last, according to your requirement about leather and style, production, delivery.
Foot mold customization, make plaster foot mold, make trial shoes according to the foot mold, adjust the last after trying, and then make the final shoe.
The shoes themselves will not be different according to the two levels of service, but the fit, especially if the customer’s feet are more special-shaped, there will be a significant gap.
My feet are not ill-shaped and I feel suitable for shoes from many European brands. I still tried the service of foot mold customization.
After casting the foot model in his store in Shanghai Global Harbor, I gave him the Henry Maxwell shoes and said I liked the round toe and banana last.
The first version, probably because of the first contact with banana last, that banana feeling is not right and a little distorted. Then on the inside of the forefoot, a little empty. Lastly the last is a bit pointy.
In the second version, the last had been greatly improved, the only problem was that the front palm is a little empty.
The third version, the fit is perfect, and the last is round enough (I forgot to take pictures!).
So there are this pair of shoes.
Let’s take a look together.
The following content, on the one hand, is to see with everyone what the level of his finished shoes is, and on the other hand, it is to give advice to Wiracetas.
Unboxing
Shoebox without any logo, since they have a trademark, which must be treated as their own children and place it everywhere if possible. The size of the shoe box is significantly larger. This nearly square shoe box is more suitable for boots.
The information posted on the corner of the shoe box, this is quite good, and the information is quite enough.
When the lid is lifted, it is a bubble paper, of which the functionality is certainly no problem, but the aesthetics are relatively lacking. Of course, I don’t agree with the way paper balls are stuffed. Shoehorn, no logo on it, and not unique enough.
Dark brown shoe bags, the material is indescribable. Still no logo on it, which is a problem. Secondly, is the brand color scheme clear? The green of the shoe box and the dark brown of the shoe bag?
Last
It’s mine, it’s mine, it’s mine. You have the look I want.
The toe is round and short enough, and the position of the little toe is the most prominent place on the outside of the shoe. The left foot is a little wider than the right foot. What more can I ask for?
Well, here’s it, to say something nitpicking, aesthetics. This is not easy because it is both subjective and cannot be described very specifically in words.
The toe cap is less agile. In fact, what can be moved is nothing more than the curves on both sides, but it is such a subtle thing that it is possible to adjust the top feeling of 100 versions. I don’t say that foreign brands are doing well, I just looked at a lot of good shoes, and then put this requirement on Wiracetas.
The final shoe, there is still not much banana feeling, just like I said that Oct Tenth’s self-considered banana last, is nothing more than the widest place is widened, this shoe, and then the outside has a strange capital, the toe cap also has a certain degree of translation to the inside, but may not dare, the overall is still the taste of a normal last.
It’s not a problem, my preference for banana lasts is only in his fit.
This angle reflects a feature of my feet. The instep of my foot is not high, but the inside arches up a bit, so you can see the inner corner of the quarter, which is clearly raised.
This is where we didn’t communicate, but it was clear that the foot mold captured.
Pattern
The plain cap toe Oxford, logically speaking, does not have much upper design content, but the first time I see this pair, it is a word, short.
The cap toe is short, the Vamp is short. This is actually the most important point in cap toe upper design, but I have never taken it out, that is, the length of the lace area.
Of course, I don’t have a strong preference, and the short ones are good.
Another design point is the decorative line on both sides of the laces. The curvature, the point of contact with the upper. Edward Green’s swan neck element is played here.
The design of Wiracetas is very traditional, and I should see the same placement on New & Lingwood.
The suggestion is that the density of the decorative stitches is too low!
Leather
As a custom shoe, there are certainly many leather options, but his main recommendation is Ilcea museum calf. The burgundy color was chosen because the last time I saw it on Alford from John Lobb Prestige collection, I thought it was quite interesting.
Although it is red, it is very dark, and it may probably be mistaken for dark brown or black.
Under bright light, the red color will come out.
So it’s still a relatively safe color choice.
I wore it at home for about 2 hours. The leather substrate is delicate, and the plating is a little noticeable. This is the standard of Ilcea, after all, not every company has John Lobb’s leather purchasing strength.
Craftsmanship
First of all, I will give you a panorama to understand the level of welt and waist.
Stitch density and fudge on welt are quite similiar to Mattina.
The fudge on heel and the grinding of heel and heel are on par with Mattian and Badia.
Outsole
Beveled waist and painted brown.
Details
On the whole pair of shoes, only the insole has the logo, I think writing the customer’s name on the lining cannot be wrong.
Fit
This is the most wonderful place.
I loosen laces completely, and my foot desperately stretches forward, stopping when there is a noticeable pressure on the sides.
At this time, the heel and shoe heel are only about one-third to one-fourth of the thickness of the finger, which is in perfect condition.
After fastening the shoelaces, there is a slight gap in the V zone. But this is a new shoe and worn shoe may close tighter.
I give 100 points on fit.
Summary
Let’s go back to the question of titles. What is bespoke? The original meaning is to speak for, to express the wishes of the guest, to achieve what the guest wants.
Then the translation of the Chinese is exceptionally correct, customized.
However, today, it is not bespoke that the workmanship is not fine enough, it is not bespoke that it does not have a unique style, it is not bespoke even if it is too cheap.
Is Wiracetas bespoke? What do you think?
