The Italian shoe factory, founded in 1912, has always had a good reputation. It has the iconic blue outsole.
But after being acquired by Korean E-Land Group, it plummeted. Basically, in the men’s shoe circle, no one talks about this brand anymore.
It stands to reason that after you buy it, you must use this brand to make money, but in fact, there are fewer and fewer styles, and there are fewer and fewer physical stores, networks, and purchase channels.
Last
A round loafer last, which is not very impressive, but also not making any mistake.
Pattern
I think this penny Loafer style has a pretty good name, College Loafer. Because this style is the ivy style brought up to the pop.
In this style, there are two classics, one is Alden, since it is Alden, then shell cordovan is a perfect match.
The other is J. M. Weston, France’s most recognisable and coveted style, 180.
This pair of Buonarotti is a parody/plagiarism/tribute to J. M. Weston 180。
Outsole
Sutor Mantellassi does not receive too much appreciation, but the blue outsole is indeed well-known. This pair is made of rubber forefoot and leather waist.
I have a bad impression of the blue outsole. I found that the color faded when I had my routine shoe care. Yes, my routine includes leather sole care.
Santoni, which also plays with colors on the sole, has no such case with orange soles.
Leather
This leather is disappointing at first glance, and you don’t even have to look at the creases.
The pores are noticeable, but the leather is also noticeably grinded.
I wore it after walking around the house a few times, without shoe tree, the creases are heartbreaking.
Construction
The vast majority of shoe factories in Italy use Blake construction, and Sutor Mantellassi is no exception. But this pair of shoes utilize Goodyear construction, or really?
If you look closely at the stitches, they are quite real.
But looking back at the stitching channel on the sole, stitches on welt can never be the same ones on outsole. So, this shoe is not Goodyear, or even Blakes Rapid construction, but the purest Blake construction.
Blake stitching on the insole.
I don’t think there’s a shame in using Blake construction, but it’s quite cheap to deceit.
Summary
Style wise, the proportions are coordinated, but the leather, craftsmanship, and soles fade, which makes people feel that the brand is falling into the abyss step by step.