In my eyes, the two remaining luxury brands (let’s just call them that) in Britain are Dunhill and Burberry.
Dunhill’s lighters and pipes are still quite sought after, but only in a small circle. In the field of clothing, Dunhill is closer to the overall luxury industry than Burberry, that is, a large number of Italian production.
I don’t quite understand why a British brand chooses Italy for production and still claims it heritage English. Mulberry is a very good example, which is currently made in China. I don’t think the quality made in China is not good, but I just think that on the one hand, you want to reduce the cost, on the other hand, you want to receive a high premium, who do you think you are?
Louis Vuitton made in Italy is the same, but the brand is “tough” enough, or there are enough people willing to pay the bill.
My shoes are made in England. Among the information I have learned, there are Gaziano & Girling, Crockett & Jones, Afred Sargent and Cheaney who worked for Dunhill.
I’m not sure which made this pair.
Last
The last is quite Italian, however, the elongated and square toe also reminds a last, which is the one made by George Cleverley.
Why do I have this association? Because after Poulsen & Skone Co was acquired by New & Lingwood, the bespoke department hired George Cleverley to do the work. Then Poulsen & Skone Co used Crockett & Jones for making private label which is further supplied to Alfred Dunhill.
Therefore, the inheritance of shoe last has this origin.
It is easier to see whether the last is similar to George Cleverley’s on a pair of smooth leather Oxford.
Looking at the height of the toe and diving from the side, the chisel is not obvious.
Pattern
A “plain” plain toe Blucher.
Construction
In general, welt is the most notable place to determine the maker. The stitch density, in British brands, is quite satisfactory, a little on the high side.
First of all, I will exclude Gaziano & Girling and Alfred Sargent.
Judging from the stitching of the sole, it is golden, which belongs to Crockett & Jones. The embossing next to the suture, as I remember correctly, is also the smell of Crockett & Jones.
Leather
Very short fluff, and then a good sense of satin, you can guess that it is Janus of Charles F. Stead. However, it is not excluded to use Italian suede.
It’s hard to describe the colour. I think it’s closest to Moleskin.
I haven’t thought about how to match this gray.
Details
Although it is not the first time to see the tongue design, I feel quite good every time I see it, as if it is very comfortable.
One layer of leather, no lining leather, and the back is suede, which touches the instep and is really comfortable.
This is the place where I’m not sure about the maker.
Crockett & Jones’ information is all printed, but this is handwritten.
38 is a European size, and 5 is the corresponding UK size. Litsoon is the name of the style.
Summary
The shoes are not very worthy seeing, but it’s fun to find out who is the maker.