I have a catalogue summarizing all models introduced by John Lobb Paris, but this one is not inside, I happily bought them and check the reason.
Last
Last 2410 is very unusual and maybe cannot be found on other models. Very round toe and even more blunt than the famous 4395 which host iconic loafer Lopez.
Pattern
A pair of tassel loafers with a lot of old money flavor. Maybe this so called old money is a misnomer, and I found this model more prevalent in the US than UK.
What kind of loafers is mainstream, what is trendy and what is old money? Let us have a countdown.
Mainstream, as the name tells, it must be low profile, so plain penny loafer and tassel loafer are in this domain. Because of Alden, strap loafer is also very popular.
Trendy loafers are those with significantly innovative designs, such as Antibes from Gaziano & Girling and those bring antique elements into current last, an example is Hawthrone, the butterfly loafer from J.FitzPatrick.
Old money loafers, I think they should have two characteristics, one is wingtip brogue. Loafer was regarded indoor shoes, in another word, slipper by definition, so brogue this country element should be very contrast. At that time, maybe some tasteful connoisseurs decided to play around and made this model popular in certain community. Another feature is long tongue covering the instep. This imitates the formality of lace up shoes.
On this pair Este, two features are present, Wingtip runs till the heel, and tongue covers up to the ankle.
Under the long tongue, there is one thing only found on old money loafers, elastic. Why do other loafers does not need this?
The answer still resides on the long tongue.
For most loafers, the tongue plays important roles of fit, as the length of the shoe and the height of the tongue hold the foot tight.
But when the tongue is very long, if it presses too much, the foot cannot enter, if it presses too loose, the heel will not hold.
Let us look at lace up shoes, when you put into your foot, you untie the lace so to open up the tongue area, the same applies to this loafer.
Normally, when the back is patched with a piece of cup shape leather, no seam is needed. But this cup is formed by the leather from the toe, without seam the lasting would be very skill intensive.
Leather
Leather quality has long been the selling point of John Lobb as the tannery and John Lobb share a same parent company, so it has priority to choose.
Fantastic creases.
You can just expect this pair to work for decades.
Construction
Welt stitches of John Lobb mainline may not be more dense than other middle range brands, however the leather sole is thinner and the stitches are tightly tucked into the welt, which makes fineness.
The stitches run firmly without any deviation which says the production is quite reliable.
Heel lasting
This is a point I check for each pair. If the arm race of dress shoes is to introduce bespoke shoemaking technique into Ready to Wear shoes, I think my value is to tell where they are.
Outsole
Outsole of John Lobb, no matter it is mainline or Presitge line, nothing extraordinary. The slightly bevelled waist of Prestige line was highly praised, but today, even the entry level from Spain has this feature.
The heel block is where I am very disappointed, firstly John Lobb has logoed one, then it is tail shape till the current straight one.
Details
Information on the inner lining, model name Egee, size UK5, width E and last 2410.
Conclusion
Although it is loafer, however it may not be suitable for summer, rather for chill weather and pairing with suits, as a banker.