This is a pair of vintage shoes. Why do I mention this? Because Johnston Murphy is still alive today. Most of them are glued shoes, and there are very few welted shoes. Most are made in India or other Southeast Asian countries, and they are not made in the United States.
These vintage shoes were produced in the United States. That was about before the 1990s. As one of the four kings of the United States shoemakers, Johnston Murphy has produced very high-quality shoes in history. It was also made in Japan. At that time, the brand was licensed to a Japanese company, and the Japanese company actually let China’s Mars factory do OEM work.
Vintage shoes, for me, on the one hand, are good for reusing things that have been buried deeply. On the other hand, I can learn about the previous process characteristics which processes we think are awesome now were once just routine operations. Finally, naturally, it is the style design that brings inspiration.
Let us check out the shoes.
Last
From this last shape, the possibility of the 1980s is the greatest.
Although American shoes are famous for their stupidity, wide heads are not really their pots, but the trend brought by Italy. In fact, the last shape of American shoes, after the British flavor at the beginning of the establishment of the industry, soon moved to Italian, which was elongated. However, because the heads are thick, it is not obvious if they are not pointed out. However, the overall harmony and beauty of the American last is still lacking in meaning.
Pattern
This is the most valuable place on this pair. It’s my first time to see this style.
Monk loafer. First of all, is this word weird? In fact, the answer is much more puzzling than you think. Because Monk is Loafer. This is not what I said, but its origin and the way many people wear it in modern times. I always untie the buckle when I take off the shoes, but I also know that many people keep it and then wear it.
In recent years, it may be represented by Italian brand Edhen, and other brands have followed suit, which is the real Monk Loafer.
This style, the so-called Monk buckle, is purely decorative in my eyes.
This pair of Johnston Murphy is an old-school loafer style that basically covers the instep. However, Monk’s buckle was added.
This design is very interesting.
Because it has elastic band, it doesn’t need Monk to tighten or limit the instep movement. But you have to say that it is pure decoration, and it can work again after the elastic band has no force. So it’s interesting.
From the aesthetic point of view, the V-shaped decoration hiding the elastic band area is quite beautiful. Monk’s strip passes through the ring at the top of the tongue, which also makes the upper very simple.
Overall, this vamp design is not common now, but it should look good.
Leather
This is also the interesting place of this pair of shoes. Leather is bookbinder. But the crease is extremely delicate. And as a pair of shoes in the 1980s or 1990s, they are still in very good condition. The black on it is the residue of black shoe polish on the original owner.
What’s interesting about that? It’s needle-grained bookbinder!. Textured bookbinder leather?! This is very interesting.
From the manufacturing of leather, isn’t that an extra process?
First, the bottom leather is embossed, and then the film is covered.
There is a problem with this method, because the film is very reflective, and the texture of the needle grain is not obvious, so unless you look at it so closely, you can’t see it at all.
Construction
The regarded high-end process today maybe was a routine operation in the past.
Slot along the welt, and the stitching is in the pressing groove. It can be considered as the process of John Lobb Prestige and Crockett & Jones Handgrade today, but the groove of this one is not covered with wax.
Even this relatively advanced technology didn’t add points or even reduce points to this shoe. Why?
Look at the signboard in the leather above, the welt is very wide, which is also the normal state of American shoes. There are such delicate teeth and even hidden lines on such a wide welt, which is particularly mismatched.
Sole
Quite a standard American Goodyear shoe sole, open channel, large flat bottom and low stitch density. Rubber heel.
The leather sole of American shoes is quite thick.
The big piece of rubber or even plastic under the outsole of this heel is the biggest feature of the cost reduction of American shoes in the later period. Functionally speaking, there is really no problem.
Details
Heel lasting is quite good. The gap between upper and heel block is fine.
Trademark, and then Aristocraft is the brand’s advanced line, produced in the United States.
The only recognizable information is the size 6 and width D/B.
The midsole leather is quite quality. The lining is perforated. This hole may be for air permeability, but it is a bit illogical as the upper is not perforated, so air ventilation cannot be realized.
Summary
Although it is a pair of shoes with interesting design, if it sits on a more modern last, it may not look bad, but it may not be classic enough, so I have no desire to re-engrave.