These shoes weren’t really my specification because I asked Mr. Maftei to make the shoes he wanted to make for me. The result is the last and craftsmanship are so satisfying, while the colour is a little bit out of control.
Let us check it out.
Upper Pattern
Maftei’s signature style, seamless wholecut Oxford.
No seams on the upper. The whole piece of leather is put on the last and shaped, then the opening area is cut. The very beautiful thing is the smooth, clean and elegant heel. Practically speaking, the leather is tightened, so if it is not well cared for, it is more likely to crack.
Last
In the unboxing article, we saw that the shoes were very short and “fat” because of the banana shape last.
At that time, there was a burst of ridicule, saying that it was for people over 60 years old.
When I first put it on, the word that came to mind was Cute. Such a short and chubby shoes with zero aggressiveness is exactly what I am after.
After wearing it for a long time, it seems to be more and more beautiful to me, probably because I am moving closer to 60 years old.
This is the angle that I often see, short and fat? Nope.
Central European shoemakers, whether they are Ready To Wear or bespoke, are basically in the same state.
On one hand, there are very local characteristics of large square and round toes, and even platypus thick flat toes like Budapester; on the other hand, they are strongly influenced by Italian aesthetics to elongate the toe cap.
The only Central European brand I can think of that is not influenced by Italy is Germany’s Heinrich Dinkelacker.
In contrast, the most influenced is Saint Crispin’s. Saint Crispin’s can be so highly recognized, in addition to the wood pegging on the waist, the uniqueness of the upper design has a lot to do with its last being mainstream (Italy) mixed with a little non-mainstream (Austria, Central Europe).
Maftei is more non-mainstream with a little mainstream. Although Maftei only offers bespoke service and has countless lasts, last 775 is one of the most representative.
Square round toe is somehow elongated.
In fact, the difference between my last and 775 is that the degree of elongation is less, because the elongation is something that I personally do not favor.
I have a little criticism about the last of this shoe, that is the transition from the instep to the forefoot is not sharp enough and too gentle. It’s not that I like to be sharp, but I think that’s what fits my foot better. In fact, when you wear it, the forefoot will be a little loose. As a finished shoe, this is no problem, as bespoke, not enough.
Leather
I have owned this pair of shoes for more than 1 and a half years, but because of this color, I only wear them in summer, and so far it has been worn for around 20 times. For the judgment of leather, basically a few times, the crease comes out, it is enough. What level this pair is, I don’t think I need to say much.
There is no difference in leather level between the left and right feet.
Maftei particularly likes to use crust from tannery Du Puy, and instead of going through dealers, it buys directly from tanneries. After so many years of cooperation, the leather standard is indeed very good.
Craftsmanship
Stitches are hidden. The welt is cut in the middle, and covered back from both sides after stitching. As Kenjiro Kawashima (the third place in the 2022 Shoemaking Championship) said, it is not difficult to make shoes, and it requires practice, as long as you are willing to put in the effort, you will definitely be able to do it well. Hiding stitches on welt is one of those crafts, and very few shoemakers choose to do it.
Outsole
Forefoot of leather sole is then covered with a rubber sheet. This method is not particularly popular, and some bespoke shoemakers offer this option to customers who walk a lot. Why isn’t it popular? Because unless the sole is premade, it is relatively troublesome to produce. you can take a look at the photos taken by Kenjiro Kawashima in the process.
There has been a long debate about rubber sole and the leather sole, such as whether the rubber sole is more comfortable, whether leather sole has better breathability.
I agree that leather is better at moisture absorption, that is, more perspiration-wicking, so it feels drier. Since the midsole is leather, the outsole does not matter so much.
The waist is not round enough as the London waist, but not exactly a large flat sole, slightly rounded.
The transition from waist to heel can still see the taste of quaint custom shoes and the treatment of details.
Summary
When really asked what it was like to have this pair of bespoke shoes, I could say the break in stage is quite short and it became comfortable so quickly and then I almost never feel it on my feet!
If you think about it, the chubby last and high-grade leather are the things I care and love.
