In 2021, Mattina announced an official cooperation with Italian giant Vibram and hosted a ceremony in Guangzhou. In the event, the all-new H last was unveiled. Mattina equips two lasts since its wonderful debut, last C and N. C stands for Cantabile and N Narrative, both musical phrases. The last names come from the hobby of the Mattina’s owner, Mr. MA Weiping. He majored classical music in university and attends concert every weekend.
Mattina’s lasts are second-eye beauty. Maybe the first sight makes you tick but not crush, once you spend time with her, you cannot fall in love with anyone else. My favorite N last backs up this theory the best.
The new H last stands for Harmonic emphasizing the harmonious coexistence of sharp lines and comfort. Alongside with this last, a model Berlioz was released.
Let us have a check.
Unboxing
I noticed it wrote MARS on the postage box, I have some relatives on MARS? I don’t think so. That is because the factory behind brand Mattina called MARS.
Every time I look at the shoe box, I feel the logo is too small.
Side sticker has a golden frame, the model name is Berlioz, last H, size 38, and leather is Vocalou 8665.
Hector Berlioz, French musician, masterpiece Symphonie Fantastique.
Mattina is a well rounded brand which means it does not compete with low price and so called value. Its offering is comprehensive and best in luxury experience. But still it opens more information than most brands, such as the leather details. Some brand likes to use the reputation or perceived luxury of tanneries, while Mattina does not call the name, but the actual grade. Vocalou is the very popular choice in dress shoemaking industry from French Tannery Annonay. 8665 is the colour code. It may be not important for most consumers, but quite interesting to well seasoned and seeking ones. I hope we have more knowledge and choice about leathers.
Remove the cover, lies a photo of this model.
On the back of the card, there is more information such as construction and model description Wingtip Oxford.
Most shoe brands love to use print paper to wrap, and I am not a fan of it. When the paper is new and neat, it says exquisite, however once creased, the paper is nothing good.
Navy shoe bag with fantastic touch.
Last
I am never a fan of elongated last, however I must admit harmony is achieved. The whole streamline from top (opening) to toe is so natural without losing sharpness.
The low rise toe still offers enough room for foot toes.
Pattern
A navy colour Balmoral oxford with wingtip.
The description is long enough; however, it does not stop here, I can add three more: medallion, imitation and swan neck。
Medallion is intuitive and this one features a butterfly.
Wingtip reduce formality of the shoes and visually makes it longer.
Imitation means the wingtip is not where two piece of leather connects, but only decorative lines. This design is cleaner and finer.
Swan neck was popularized by Edward Green and you can find this element in many its shoes. Model 954 from Carmina emphasizes this to a higher stage.
Balmoral was a boot name, and when Oxford students modernized it into ankle high shoes, the name transferred to the shoes and shortened to Bal sometime.
Cap toe is the default choice of oxford, but Balmoral with cap toe is the real classic.
What is the key of a Balmoral oxford? it is the line from shoe lace end till heel. This clean and simple line says discreet.
The back heel also has some design elements as a several stitch line on top to add more decoration and tenderness.
Construction
Stitches are almost invisible! The reason is the welt is narrow by the first place, then the 45 degree rounded edge makes the welt narrower.
The fudge matches great with stitch density.
Comparing with my first pair of Mattina, I can tell the stitch threads are finer. The brand is keeping evolving.
Out Sole
Double colour sole is very good looking and certainly has the right to surcharge but Mattina does not.
Cuban heel was upgraded.
Details
I notice an unnatural transition from toe to forefoot and I think that is caused the shape of toe stiffener.
Conclusion
Whether Mattina makes the best shoes in China, I don’t have an answer, but as a brand, Mattina is the best and not only in China, even in the world I can confess.