The reason that I had interested in Sons of Henrey then is just as that everyone would be interested in it today, it mimics Edward Green. The brand can never officially admit this, but any shoe aficionado can tell so by only looking at a few pairs. Combined with what he did, developing lasts in Springline, sourcing same type of leathers, this selling point is confirmed.
This black cap toe oxford Harvey with rubber sole hit target the fastest in two rounds of GMTO (Group Made To Order). My first batch of Harvey uses Dark Oak Nevada leather which is almost exclusively used by Edward Green (and maybe Church’s), but sales are disappointing. No matter how people despise black cap toe oxford as boring and old man, its charm is unparalleled.
I decide that this pair will be my last pair of black cap toe oxford. It’s not that I fall out of love with this model which is always the shoe that makes me most excited, but there are too many of the same shoes, and I really can’t take care of (wearing) them. It is necessary to increase colour palette for more outfit possibilities.
Unboxing
Very unpretentious shoe boxes, compared with Chinese brands, there are no advantages at all.
Information and barcode on the side make little sense to consumers, the only readable ones are leather is Weinheimer Boxcalf in Black and size is UK5.
Remove the lid and we see a piece of cloth. This thing is functionally good. When I shine my shoes and usually put them on the floor, if sometimes I put them on my knees, and this cloth can keep my trousers clean.
Below is the shoe bag with the shoes. Gray flannel texture is nice.
Last and Pattern
The same model but with leather sole has been unboxed so we need no more description. Elegant Round last mimics 202 last of Edward Green, and pattern Chelsea of Edward Green.
Outsole
City rubber sole is not as delicate as Crockett & Jones branded rubber sole.
Leather
I have always said that I cannot judge leather quality on unworn shoes, and this should be more promising because of the fineness of pores up close.
Details
Black lining, black half sock lining with pressed logo. All black is not bad.
Mimicking Edward Green?
This is the real content of this article, is Sons of Henrey the good value substitute for Edward Green?
Put them stand side by side. The wax on Edward Green is barely visible, and the toe cap is even wax-less. Golden logo has a more luxurious feeling.
The toe of Sons of Henrey is probably a little rounder and the 202’s banana feeling is heavier, and the outer protrusion is more pronounced.
But I found a more obvious and strange point, which is that Edward Green is more sculptural, and forefoot is snugger. I don’t understand as Sons of Henrey went to Springline to copy 202 last which was developed by Springline, how can one copy its own homework badly? I have a suspicion that it is not a last problem, but a lasting issue.
The workmanship if not put together may not be seen the difference, but the direct comparison says very clearly that Edward Green has finer stitch density, narrower edges and finer fudge. All stand on a higher level.
The upper stitching of Edward Green may not be denser but is noticeably neater and cleaner.
Leather, Edward Green on the left and Sons of Henrey on the right, may be different on fineness, Sons of Henrey has more wax and is much brighter.
Heel stitching ends differently, and the Sons of Henrey has a higher heel cup.
Edward Green uses traditional round laces and Sons of Henrey more elaborate flat laces.
Both are the most suitable sizes for me, Edward Green has a wider V shape on lace area. The wrapped feeling of the forefoot is a hundred times better than Sons of Henrey! If the last is copied well, and the production cannot be executed at the same level, the end result is still dissatisfying. Edward Green’s heel cannot hold my heel tight and slippery happens.
Bend the upper several times fiercely to see the leather performance. Just like the previous observation, the fineness is not bad, but the leather of Edward Green has almost no finish on the surface, while the Sons of Henrey has a layer of coating.
Creases on Edward Green is even finer than Sons of Henrey when the latter already has a good one.
Summary
I purchased this pair after I own Chelsea of Edward Green. The last is what I like, the leather performance is satisfactory, and these are the two things I care about the most about shoes.
But do you really still think there is such thing as value substitute? The best advice is to live in your means.