Without any exaggeration, Dover from Edward Green is the most sought-after dress shoes in the world, especially among seasoned and exquisite shoe enthusiasts. Even I am not a Derby guy, I have to admit the lure of Dover.
Let us have a look.
Unboxing
Without any explanation and English word, only this green blue shoe box and the logo, shoe lovers just get excited!
Dover has a nickname which is highly praised and accepted, that is the Rolls & Royce of beaters. Because its pattern says it is a country or outdoor shoes, but the exquisite making says it is so high quality and luxurious. This pair is unique for its last, 32, one of the oldest lasts from Edward Green, the father of 202. Colour is Dark Oak Antique, which is also the signature of Edward Green.
Remove the cover, there is a card writing about the specification of this pair and how to take care of it. Then it is the cloth for placing shoes onside to brush and shining.
Fluffy shoe bags in a same camel colour.
Last
Dover is classic and famous for its pattern, and I have seen almost every last from Edward Green equipped on it. Till today, 202 is regarded the most classic last from Edward Green, and 32 is the father of 202.
Last 32 is very old fashion even by the slightest first sight, this old touch comes from unharmonious transition from toe to forefoot.
From outer angle, the widest part is too extrusive, and even the height is too strong.
202 was released for a reason, but the scarcity makes 32 even more pursued today!
202 is too round for many, 32 is even rounder and blunter, however the split toe of Dover soften this feeling.
Pattern
Split toe is not invented by Edward Green, but it is Edward Green which upgraded the making to a new level.
Even today, the pie crust apron is not so widely seen as the skill is high. And the reverse stitch of split toe is even more labour intensive and demands more skill and experience.
The cracked egg split toe is highly praised by so many shoe lovers.
Heel pattern is too complicated and not well proportioned in my eyes.
Out Sole
I notice there are two kinds of leather sole, one is like this one and single crust colour, the other is two colour with waist blackened, my guess is only black oxford has two colour sole.
Leather
Dark Oak is a colour from Nevada leather supplied by French tannery Haas. Edward Green is so sought after I believe largely due to its unmatchable leather quality. Burnishing is what Edward Green loves to do and the word Antique just means that.
Personally I don’t get it why people love burnishing which makes the shoes dirty without even a single wear, on top of that, look at how badly Edward Green does it, I have no appetite again.
The heel burnishing is even worse to a different level, how do people take of this careless work?
Conclusion
With so many unmatchable goodness and badness, Dover is still dover to be worshipped.