In this unboxing article, I have no interest to show case the box, shoe bag and so on, we just focus on this very interesting boots and its name. As a shoe enthusiast, I believe no one can put a poker face when he heard the word Lobb, because no matter you love its aesthetics or you can afford it, you want it, that is it, so simple. And when we just use one word to call the brand or shoemaker, it must be John Lobb St. James or John Lobb Ltd UK. Then why is this pair from another Austrian bespoke shoemaker Maftei called Lobb? It was a negligence. When I found this model on Instagram, my interest was peak and asked for a make from Maftei, and on the quotation back it read Lobb. I was certainly alerted and inquired why. Maftei told this model was an order made for John Lobb St. James.
Using freelancer or outworker is not a secret in west end bespoke shoemaking or even Savile Row tailoring, the dual founders of Gaziano & Girling, Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling both played this role.
How is the cooperation? John Lobb St. James measures the client and carves last, clicks uppers then sends this “raw material” to outworker, outworker finishes the making.
So, the last of this pair was not developed by Maftei but John Lobb St James, of course the pattern.
Last
The first sight should remind you that the strong square and high rise toe are quite typical Austrian shoemaking, is it true this last was developed by John Lobb St James?
The sperm whale toe is even more obvious in profile view.
But if we change the angle to front 45 degree, I believe most can agree this is an English last, very harmonious and conservative.
This last has two steep dives on both side and makes the square toe less prominent and more elegant.
Pattern
If you see these shoes for the first time, how will you categorize it? A loafer? A boot? or something else? I call it Lazy Chelsea as it is a combination of Lazyman and Chelsea. As the sectioned elastics is the signature of Lazyman while the ankle height is higher than dress shoes but apparently lower than Chelsea boots. I feel this innovation is interesting.
I cannot say this model is unique of Maftei as I have seen it from Yohei Fukuda as well, although two give very different feelings.
Construction
Handstitched with blind, super narrow waist and the logo is on one side of the fiddle back waist.
Conclusion
The last is so impressive and I think most will give it a try.