Oct. Tenth may be the most well known Chinese shoemaker in the world as it offers unmatchable value on its price for handwelted construction and other details incorporated from bespoke shoemaking. The brand is the date of the female owner, nickname Xibao. Let us have a look at this pair.
Unboxing
Green shoe box with golden logo and slogans on it.
Drawer like opening design.
Pull it out, a plastic shoehorn and two shoe bags containing of the shoes.
Velvet like shoe bags are tender and comfortable to touch, the end of string has two rings.
Last
Maybe the best almond last in the world. There is one Japanese bespoke shoemaker very famous for almond last and this one is related.
You cannot find a single angle not marvelous.
Asymmetrical heel is beautiful and also functional to hold heel.
There is one issue (if it is) about this last which is the waist is not narrow at all, does it not support arch well?
Pattern
Lazyman was the creation of George Cleverley for then UK Prime Minister Winston Churchill to serve his voluminous body so no need to bend over to lace up. And the original design was a full brogue wingtip, this one is brogued cap toe.
Brogued lines along quarter are exquisite.
Construction
I am not sure this pair is machine stitched or handstitched, and the stitches align with fudge, but not perfectly.
For handwelted construction, the key focus should be narrowed and blind waist. Blind waist cannot be achived by Goodyear machine and it makes a finer pair of dress shoes.
Execution of Oct. Tenth is top level and the stitches in waist is invisible at all.
Bevelled waist is very beautiful and double colours are not unusual. But the most iconic is the dividing curves like peach.
Very strong Cuban heel and the slope may be too much.
Leather
Maybe wax is too much and the pores are not so apparent.
Details
Toe plate is installed by default, however the edge is not at the same surface with the sole.
No marks or anything everywhere, no logo, nothing.
Conclusion
I know many people fall in love with this last, and it is really great. Oct. Tenth’s craftsmanship are also well worth the price, a no-brainer choice.
这双鞋的后跟的确有点过了,有个小斜坡就行,没必要搞得和德州牛仔靴一样。单看图片,感觉内衬用料还是一般水平;鞋口那圈的定型只能说过得去,强过一些西班牙鞋厂出品。
Lazyman我就自己摸过EG的,也没觉得有啥特别的。自己还一双都没有,没遇到心水的楦型的。
放弃这个想法,不要去start。费这个劲,去breakin一双乐福不好吗?简单点
但从款式,还是喜欢Lazyman,不喜欢乐福。我现在看德比,真的除了两眼,三眼的,其他的完全看不下去。