The number 1 national brand in France. I asked a couple of French friends who basically don’t wear dress shoes, and they all have heard of J.M. Weston and said they would be very interested in buying the brand if it wasn’t that expensive.
My impression of J.M. Weston was very good in two ways. One is that model 180, 598 and even 677 are the most iconic ones in dress shoe community; and the other is that the shoes are very well made.
Let’s take a look at how well they are made in this article.
Unboxing
J.M. Weston shoebox can be said to be very funny, which is even inferior to express parcels. The concept is environmental friendliness, and the French went extreme on this road.
The information on the side, 5D is the size. Leather information is also very easy to understand.
The following coding, I have a special article to teach how to interpretate the serial number at the bottom. The first number, 11, seems to be new, and I don’t know what it means. 41 is the last of 180 loafers. 101 refers to black calf leather. 180 is the style number. 1F is single leather sole.
When the lid is lifted, the packaging inside makes me speechless.
There is not a single shoe bag, is it environmentally friendly to this extent.
Last
The last of 180 loafer is the most recognizable last in dress shoe community, and its roundness makes John Lobb Lopez bow down.
In addition to chubby, the “high wall” is also an important feature, that is, the contour of the apron and the contour line of the sole are basically the same.
Upper Pattern
The upper pattern 180 loafer has been imitated too many times, I think the thin shovel on the edge of the apron should be the core element. The apron edge of John Lobb Lopez is rougher.
Craftsmanship
I admire J.M. Weston for three reasons. The first reason, as mentioned in the introduction, is that there are peerless classics, such as this 180 Loafers. The other two reasons are that shoes are really well made.
J.M. Weston is machine made shoe, but there is fasthold on the midsole leather then welt is sewn on. This is a combination of Goodyear construction and handwelting construction.
In the field of formal men’s shoes, it has been unique for a long time. Now Bridlen from India seems to use this construction. This construction increases the number limit of resoling.
What J.M.Weston amazes me is how clean and neat the stitches are, as shown in the pictures.
Edward Green has always been considered the benchmark for Goodyear shoes, and I will now take out one pair of Edward Green and compare the stitch cleanness directly.
It is not simply a matter of stitch density. As seasoned connoisseurs, we can stand farther, from the perspective of laymen, which is better? Which feels better?
Some may think that it is because Edward Green has fudge along the welt edge, which is very fine, highlighting that the stitch density does not seem to be high. But look carefully, J.M. Weston’s edge is also processed, and probably more elaborate than Edward Green.
In short, J.M. Weston is the best one in Ready To Wear shoes.
The knurled on the heel is not uncommon on most European shoes, but it is rare for Ready To Wear shoes to be so neat.
Leather
This is the third point of why J.M. Weston’s shoes are particularly good. Leather quality is top-notch. I’ve never seen J.M. Weston with unimpressive leathers.
The reason is that Du Puy, the tannery that belongs to Hermès today, was sold by J.M. Weston. I believe J.M. Weston may still have some privilege today.
Outsole
J.M. Weston’s heel rubber is branded, and the sole is flat and square. The opening of the hidden thread is in the middle, unlike British shoes and Spanish shoes are cut from the side. The sole is more Central European or American feeling.
Size information, left is size and right is width. In addition, if number is followed by “-“, it means to add half a size.
Shoe Tree
Branded Lasted Shoe Tree. I believe other models cannot use this bulbous shoe tree.
Here’s the info, size 5, J.M. Weston’s lasted shoe tree has no half a size. Made in France, I strongly suspect it is produced by the Avel Group, and the brand La Cordonnerie Anglaise is a subsidiary of Saphir’s parent company. The following number is the last number 41.
On the right pair, there is a circular sign, which means the wood is taken from a sustainable forest.
Comparison
Because I have Carlos Santos Weston, which is a copycat of 180 on my hand, I just put them together for comparison. Since J.M.Weston costs twice the price, let us see where is the gap.
I chose UK5 for both, put together. The length is the same, but Carlos Santos is a little wider and that’s a visual feeling, I wear it from the actual one, both UK4.5 fits me.
Another obvious feeling is gloss. J.M. Weston chose to be the same as Edward Green and make the shoes matte out of the factory.
The difference between the two on upper pattern is mainly reflected in the perforated shape of the penny strip.
In the apron area, the thread density is actually not different, but the texture of the stitching, the original is to appear solid and neat.
Summary
After reading this, do you think that J.M. Weston’s shoe making is very good and worth the money? Or do you think Carlos Santos is more cost-effective?