Different Kinds of Upper Stitch

Many thanks to Chinese shoemaker Mattina for this knowledge and example.

There are a few of them, I can’t tell the difference from the consumer’s point of view, but in fact, the production is different, so let’s unfold for the interested fans.

Words in italic is my comment

Buried Stitch

Mattina Debussy

The upper is shovelled thin and bury in a special wax line. stitch from both side, then bulge.

When the upper is stretched on the last, the effect of the leather bulging out gives the upper a three-dimensional feeling.

I didn’t expect this very common form on the market to be not so simple? To shovel the leather thin, and bury the thread in it!

Butt stitch

Mattina Rossini

On the whole piece, line spacing of the stitches are designed, the holes are punched, and the wax threads are stitched by hand. The density of the stitches and the meticulousness of the handwork determine a sophisticated or casual style.

When I see this stitch anyway, I feel like Alden…

Single Side Pie Crust

Mattina Respighi

Two pieces of pieces, one side is perforated normally, and the one side is passed through the middle layer of the leather with a hand cone, and all the pores are prefabricated out. The ramie thread that has been beaten with rosin and wax is sewn in half by hand. As the stitches pass through the middle of the leather, they form protrusions on the inside of the lid, giving them an attractive and orderly grain.

It’s the first time I’ve seen this form! I had touched Respighi’s shoes before, but I didn’t even notice this detail at the time! I really didn’t expect each of Mattina’s shoes to be so caring!

Pie Crust

Mattina Respighi

Unlike one-sided pie crust, this process is made on the entire piece. Usually the upper is stretched behind the last and sewn, and the cone is passed through the middle of the leather at one time, and then the hand is sewn in half. Compared to the one-sided pie crust, the upper is more concise.

I think there is a problem with the photos provided, and I have a better example of Mattina on hand to illustrate what such a sewing looks like.

Mattina X HCP

Revese Stitch

Mattina Respighi-s

This method is usually used in the toe position, along the toe line to divide the piece, operate on the flesh side of leather. The stitch is hidden under the leather, because the fiber of the meat surface is not as tight as the surface, so the difficulty is the highest, it is very easy to appear gaps, resulting in the scrapping of the material. This near-hidden effect is loved by customers who love shoes due to its difficulty and understated expression.

Notice that it’s the inseam on the toe.


Something that surprised me was that Mattina actually chose different processes in terms of details on different models, which I really didn’t know before.

This kind of focus on the product is quite good.