In my opinion, Florentine tailoring style has only been accepted by Chinese classic menswear enthusiasts in the last year or two.
LiiYuan has been in this style for a few years, neither many people know.
Recently, it is Stile Renaissance, a Shanghai based tailoring house, makes this style suddenly enter the landscape of most consumers.
The very earliest and well-known influencer who favors Florentine style is the owner of BRIO, a Beijing based menswear boutique. His clothes were mainly made by master tailors, and it was until BRIO launched his own tailoring service that he brought his favorite Florentine style to the audience in a more convenient way.
Just like any genre, it has a long history, but its popularity in other regions is luck and opportunity.
Suits are divided into English and Italian, and anyone who is interested in suits will agree with this statement.
British style is hard, rigid, giving people a sense of armor and letting the male breath emanate. The best model is Colin Firth.
The top tailor make this male figure to the extreme.
Italian style is elegant and relaxed, and the pattern has a slender texture.
This is stereotype in our perception. Here, whether right or wrong, we only say that this is only a genre of Italian style. Even Italian ready-to-wear brands are not only this style, but in the field of bespoke, this style has gained worldwide recognition.
We look at many boutique shops in Europe. If they launch their own brand suits, the pattern will be like this, whether they choose to make them in Italy or not.
In China, it should be Ficus and Carolina Murat which lead the trend, as well as Lancer at a higher price.
When I saw the rise of Florence style in China, my feeling was that maybe the industry is seeking change and attracting customers with new things.
If you are not a person who cares about fashion, then there is a high probability of you wear what is popular, but if you spend a lot of energy on this, then you prefer to be a trend leader rather than a follower. Therefore, when it is the most popular, it has been left behind by you (the stereotype of Napoli style), and the style that has just emerged or is niche (Florence style) is what makes you show that you are a trendsetter.
Of course, any style will eventually stabilize and hold its customers.
So what is the Florentine style?
Let me extract the description of Liverano & Liverano official website, a shop recognized as the pinnacle of Florentine style in the world.
About Our House Style
The Liverano & Liverano aesthetic remains true to the Florentine tradition of tailoring. The Liverano jacket is clean and refined, yet masculine. It features a soft, sloped, and ever so slightly extended shoulder, the sleeve head is clean and connects to a full and curved sleeve to accommodate the arm at rest or in motion. The chest is full, yet without excess drape, and has a generous lapel which is cut straight that curves outwards with the signature Liverano & Liverano roll. The lapel also features a lower positioned gorge and breast pocket. The jacket is constructed using a single angled side dart and a slightly higher buttoning point, which emphasizes the upper part of the body. The waist is gently tapered and the skirt sits close to the hips with delicately open and sweeping quarters. The lapels together with the quarters create a trim and restrained silhouette resembling a mirrored half-moon figure.
The double breasted jacket is built on the same foundation as our single breasted house style with slight modifications, such as closed quarters, a slightly shorter length, and olive leaf shaped lapels. The trousers are always pleated with a medium rise buttoned fly and cuffs. The proportions and cut of a Liverano & Liverano garment ensure an elegant silhouette with a lasting impression.
I extract the features:
Extended and round shoulder.
Arc lapel and lower gorge.
High button stance.
The waist is not nipped.
In fact, there are two characteristics that I feel the most, whether I look at the pictures of these top bespoke tailors or I wear Stile Renaissance clothes myself, that is, the shoulders that are abduction and the waist that is not nipped.
The technical feature of not nipping the waist is that there is no forward dart, and the style is that the waist space is more sufficient.
These two points are not consistent with my demand for a suit.
I hope my shoulders are flat and narrow, and I don’t like over-decorating the grandeur of my upper body. At this point, the Neapolitan style (stereotype) meets my needs.
On the other hand, the waist is not nipped, isn’t that for people with big bellies? It doesn’t fit my body. At this point, English or Naples is more in line with my expectations than Florence style.
What is the charm of Florence style?
The answer is feminine male power.
The overall weak decoration of Florence style and softer lines give people a gentle feeling and add more emotional elements.
And its extended shoulders, the so-called big silhouette, inadvertently formed a broad and thick back of men.
Let’s look at the back in English or Florence style, which will make you think this man is stronger?
If the British emphasizes the inverted triangle, the Florentine style is the masculinity of the back.