I know I’ve talked about the same topic many times, and I think every classic menswear blogger who has stood the test of time has a core philosophy.
For example, Alan Flusser believes that classic menswear is actually a rebellion against their fathers. The rock and roll of the 60s and 70s and the road style were a rebellion against their fathers, the so-called golden age of the 30-40s dressing style, and their children, that is, after 2000, the resurgence of classic men’s clothing is a rebellion once again.
For example, G. Bruce Boyer’s True Style, a timeless book no matter what era or place you read, emphasizes choosing the most moderate conservative style, and he also leads by example by showing Anderson & Shepperd, who has been worn for 50 years.
I think in the field of menswear, it is not enough to simply emphasize style and aesthetics, and it should always touch on humanities.
My biggest philosophy is to make the most of it.
Based on this, I entered classic menswear, starting from the fact that high-quality things are more durable and more expensive, so that they will not be easily discarded.
I know the same is true of workwear.
The problem with this technique that I talked about last time is that quantitative change produces qualitative change, or deterioration. When the same person, an extremely tasteful person, buys 1,000 top-quality things, he has completely violated my core philosophy.
How to make the most of it?
I don’t think this needs to be taught, just wear it to death but take care of it normally. When it breaks, if it can still be repaired, repair it. If you really don’t like it, give it to a friend, or sell it second-hand.
What is the biggest obstacle to the best use of things?
It’s not that you’ll throw away the good stuff you already have, but you’ll keep trying new things.
Nowadays people buy things seldom buy things based on practicality. The advancement of science and technology has made the satisfaction of practicality extremely cheap. Most purchases are based on curiosity. In the circle of classic menswear, it can be called philately.
Another mentality of constantly trying is to pursue the best. From welted shoes to top brands, to bespoke, to shoemakers with a century-old heritage. Or even if it’s just ready-to-wear, you go from SuitSupply to Ermenegildo Zegna to Brioni, and then see what word-of-mouth choices like Caruso, Belvest, and even more niche brands, all of them must be owned. The reason is, if you don’t wear it yourself, how do you know which one is good, how do you know which is the most suitable for you?
But just like the possibilities of life, where will there be end?
Collecting and trying new things is joyful, and I believe it is in the human genes. And selfishness is also in the genes, how to make it work better in the larger framework of society is the question.
People have heard many times that this is a discarded society, FMCG brands are representative of this trend, every 5 minutes a new item, every season you are invited to throw the previous one in the trash, and then buy the latest model. And we are also cheap and will not burden you.
We thought classic menswear was a refuge because, we’ve heard, you buy this dress and wear it until it can’t serve.
Unfortunately, it is not.
Because every year, how many new classic menswear brands are established, each flaunting its own differentiation, its own sustainability, its own high quality. Do you try it or not?
Every year, the existing recognized classic menswear brands are also pushing different styles of design, although in the eyes of outsiders, they are all suits, no difference, but in the eyes of experts, there are indeed changes in details. Do you try it or not?
If it’s really classic, it should stand still, and you should make core models such as Edward Green or John Lobb for a long time, not release new ones.
What are the consequences of this? It is a low-desire society. A low-desire society is definitely a state that capitalism abhors and wants to be completely eliminated, but is it itself wrong?
If you only accept classics, where is the place of innovation in classic menswear? Where is the pursuit of higher craftsmanship, the ultimate pursuit of aesthetics?
We (classic menswear consumers) regard ourselves as environmentalists, and our clothes have been with us for at least 10 or 20 years, compared to those who buy seasonal goods, are we really standing on the moral high ground?
When talking about five-figure suits and dress shoes every day, have you ever thought about the children in deep poverty? Have you thought about what they wear? You dress as a gentleman, do you really act as a gentleman?
My approach is that I don’t think about it, nor I look at it. Yes, be a shrunken turtle. I’m not a gentleman, just a coward.
Due to the epidemic, many small brands can’t hold on, and you can see that various bloggers are calling on everyone to support and buy things so that these brands can survive. I’m definitely supportive of these small brands, but calling everyone to buy unnecessary things, this is not consumerism and what is it?
The pursuit of beauty is a nature that should be praised; Buying high-quality products, whether it is from your own heart, or the actual wearing experience is good, or more durable, is a good consumer behavior. Collecting what you love is a source of joy. These actions are not mistakes, but they are all from the individual, still can people like us do something for society?