可能许多品牌都能说得出几款绝世经典，例如John Lobb的Lopez，比如Berluti的Andy，比如Corthay的Arca，这是大家都耳熟能详的，即使不是那么有名的品牌，也都有非常拿得出手的款式，比如Norman Vilalta的Decon，Septieme Largeur的Tobar，Bontoni的Brillantina，这些都是以一敌百的存在。 那我的问题是，假如不是款式，而是某个特征（不包括楦型），是否能够立刻让我们想起某个品牌呢？比如对于John Lobb，我想不出任何。 我能想到的，有以下这些，欢迎各位大佬添砖加瓦。 Post Views: 76
Tag: Pattern
I’m not sure whether this is a kind of sadness or not. When I introduced Maftei signature style, I said that if this style is copied by many people one day, I won’t be embarrassed. I just hope people will remember that Maftei made this style well-known. Post Views: 2,488
普通人看西服，第一眼会看什么呢？肯定是颜色，其实就算是老饕，也不可能避免第一眼看颜色，这是本能。 那么对西服有一定认知的，就是懂行的，会看什么呢？是整体的比例与线条。举个例子，李渊的衣服，衣长就比较长，重心比较靠下，然后肩宽，腰围再到下摆的比例，都给人第一眼和谐，第二眼惊艳之感。 再下一个阶段，可能肩到胸这个地方，又成为了关注点。当然，这不等于说上面那个阶段不重要，而是好的裁缝，在上面是既实现了自己的审美取向，也完成了整体和谐。肩到胸的过渡，是裁剪以及手工最重要的地方。 今天文章的问题，是什么形状的肩膀好看。 最后的答案，会让人震惊，就是国内成衣品牌，例如雅戈尔或者其他品牌的这样最好看。 Post Views: 355
As a blogger, I pay attention to aesthetics and innovation; As a shoe store owner, I am concerned about what shoes sell well. These two aspects of concern, let me deeply understand that the more beautiful and innovative, the harder it is to sell. Post Views: 568
The long history of classic dress shoes has resulted in classic/core styles from many of the longer surviving brands, and anyone with some knowledge and love of dress shoes can rattle off many, many style names. However, I think there is only one brand that has done the best job of emphasising its brand identity
鞋楦是皮鞋的灵魂，也是皮鞋品牌真正的区分点。相比于鞋款，也就是鞋面设计的容易抄袭，鞋楦的这些单纯的线条美感，要难以拷贝得多。比如Corthay的Pullman楦型，大家都觉得好，但是做到模仿十成十的，一家也没有。 Post Views: 1,304
这个问题，我毫不羞愧地说，我私下问过胡椒盐大佬好几次。 同样的问题，我也问过一些主理人，倒不是说他们藏私，而是他们给我讲的，我总觉得不透，或者无法完全吸收。 举个例子，上海W.W.Chan的包师傅，是位非常愿意分享的大师，每次和他交流，他都告诉我许多细节，比如怎么是合身，甚至很多制作细节。兴许是我水准差太远，又或者完全没有制作的基础，所以这些内容很难内化。 Post Views: 587
When it comes to dress shoes, most people think that these shoes are too boring, if it is not required by company to wear it, nobody will wear it. Check brands in the mall, no matter cheap or expensive, the appearance of the shoes is not much different, black lace up and brown loafer. Post
Dress shoes, on one hand are regarded very boring as the patterns had been invented for so many years, for laymen, they even look all the same, maybe only the difference of with lace or without; on the other hand, numerous shoemakers are still keeping innovating and designing amazing patterns. If we only look at