What is the most boring dress shoe in the world? Black Cap Toe Oxford. I cannot find any existing brand today who does not offer black cap toe Oxford, even Alden which is famous for its casualty has cap toe Oxford no matter it is made of calf or shell cordovan. French brands are known for its daring patina, however, Berluti and Corthay both have the most understated black cap toe Oxford. Speaking about last, sharp or round or square can host this model, however, only the roundest of the roundest is the king. I have been falling in love of this super round black cap toe Oxford for years, and I have owned many pairs, however, there is one model is my ultimate choice and eternal love, Chelsea from Edward Green.
City from John Lobb is also a good candidate, however last 7000 is too sharp for me.
Let us have a check on this ultimate black cap toe oxford.
Unboxing
Blueish green shoe box with a golden logo, even without the name, people recognize it.
Side stitcker with logo, then all information is handwritten, model/style Chelsea, leather black calf. size 5.5/6. Last 202 and width E. Reading of Edward Green size is confusing for the begining but quite accurate if you know the rule, the latter one 6 is US size, done.
Remove the cover, a card shows.
The card has the information about how to care of shoes, it is too entry level for consumers of Edward Green.
Then it is the cloth for putting shoes on top of it when you are shoe shining.
Same colour shoe bags.
The shoes are unprotectedly placed inside.
Last
Just like the pattern has no need for introduction, last 202 is also the most classic one in the history. At this angle, I even feel it is not round enough. Last 202 is regarded the most blunt round last, but if it is used on casual or athlete shoes, it is still too sharp, why sharp is related to elegance, we may need to dig deep into the history of French and English court.
The bump outside makes the last silly, but I would describe it as antique or quaint.
Pattern
I suspect swan neck is the original design of Edward Green, on this most boring model, this exquisite element elevates its elegance.
Back seam is till the top and with a short leather piping to close.
Construction
Welt is the finest in English Goodyear shoes.
Even though Edward Green is highly praised by many industrial insiders, shoemaking industry has laid down for too many years, the specification is not exciting anymore, especially when countries like Spain and China emerge.
When I check the waist welt of the right pair, not very impressive as the stitches are blurry.
Heel is very good and neat.
Outsole
Double coloured sole which was premium and now very ordinary. The shape formed by copper nails in the heel is much more interesting.
Details
It is said the serial number in the second line tells the manufacture date.
Conclusion
This pair of Chelsea from Edward Green is not the best shoe in my collection already as I own some very fine Japanese handmade shoes, but it is still the ultimate Oxford.