As a famous bespoke shoemaker in Austria, Maftei offers unlimited leather options to clients, such as elephant leather seen on this pair of chukka boots Mammoth, and stingray leather is very popular among its connoisseurs. Naturally, shell cordovan is in the menu, and Maftei certainly chooses the best in the world, which is from tannery Horween Chicago. Penny loafer does work well with shell cordovan as the mass public accept.
The model’s name was given by the Austrian musician, Anton Bruckner. His father was instrumental player in Church, and mother is the staff of an orchestra. His music enlightenment was hugely affected by religion and this element strongly reflects in his masterpieces.
Anton Bruckner’s music is generally soothing, but never lack of mountainy undulations.
This pair of penny loafer is also ordinary with details speaking of Viennese persistance.
Last
As I like to say, the last comes first, each pair should be examined by its last first.
As bespoke shoemaker, Maftei makes various lasts for different clients to meet their aesthetical and comfortable demand. This last is quite narrow and I would assign D width from English sizing system.
The difference between this round toe last and other makers around the world is the height of toe. This is the characteristic of Maftei, or more precisely, Austrian shoemaking.
The heel is very grip, and you can count the shoes will hold quite well on the wearer’s feet.
Pattern
Quite ordinary penny loafer from distance or by the first sight.
What can be changed on a pair of penny loafer except colour, leather or patina?
I can think of three aspects.
Firstly, the shape or hollow area of the strap where the penny can be inserted and how the name penny loafer was coined.
Legendary penny loafer Lopez from John Lobb has a very round hole, and it is very cute.
The hole of forever classic penny loafer 180 from J.M.Weston is the imitation of its logo which many people don’t realize.
Bruckner from Maftei has the narrow strap and the shape is like the mask of Zorro.
Leather
Even we have more and more tanneries producing shell cordovan, Horween shell cordovan still seizes the throne without any challenger.
This pair has an interesting piece as the colour is not pure black but with some blue, I am not sure whether Maftei did patina on shell cordovan as it does on calf.
Construction
Hand stitched outsole with quite dense fudge. The stitches were covered by waxed fudge wheel and the welt is quite narrow.
The heel block is stacked leather, and the decorative fudge is super fine here.
Outsole
Very iconic Maftei sole. Maftei can make super narrow fiddleback waist and London waist, but the one they admire and will recommand to clients is square toe like this one. The reason? Sole is for the function which should be strong and durable, and square sole is the best solution.
The wave heel is also a brand telling element of Maftei.
Conclusion
The extraordinary penny loafer with soul of Vienna.