The name ZHANG Renjie may not be familiar to you, while the name Riccardo Zhang is actually very active on social media, such as Red. So, what is so special about him? He is the only one of two tailors who has overseas working experience rather than study experience in the field of bespoke suits in China, and the other one, Zhang Xiao, who is on the top of the list. While Zhang Xiao’s Musella Dembech background is an important reason for her skills and audience following, ZHANG Renjie’s Satoria Yuki Inoue Milano background is no less important. ZHANG Renjie has just recently set up a new store, Sartoria dei Solari with another two tailors (whose interviews are on the way).
It is a great pleasure of interviewing him.
Could you introduce yourself.
My name is ZHANG Renjie, born in Leshan in 1996 and grew up in Chengdu. Hobbies are making clothes, photography and drinking.
What was the learning experience like as a tailor?
I went abroad after GAOKAO (national college entrance exam in China), I majored installation art in Brera Academy of Fine Arts in Milan, Italy.
I am always fond of classic menswear and menswear culture in Italy is very good. There were many students and friends who were studying clothing, and I began to enter the field of clothing design.
Studied sewing, elementary craftsmanship and pattern making at the Burger Clothing School.
Later, I met Mr. Cataldi, an 80-year-old tailor, and officially entered the field of handmade suits, learning the more complex handicraft from him.
A friend introduced me to Yuki Inoue, and I was trained more professionally and systematically.
Why didn’t you study abroad for a few more years?
Having already been in Italy for 5 years and reached a stage where I feel I know enough about clothes. 2020 is the most serious time of Covid 19 in Europe which had a relatively big impact on life, so I returned to China.
What was the experience like after returning to China?
After returning to China, I stayed in Chengdu and worked at a local custom store as a consultant and in charge of fitting.
After understanding the domestic market and people’s concerns about bespoke suits, I found that there was a bias in perception of Italian suits, so we decided to form our own brand and express our own aesthetics.
What is the style of Sartoria Dei Solari?
Our style is built on a North Italian foundation, with a traditional 4-cut silhouette that retains a proper stiff structure. Ponytail canvas makes the bust and thin shoulder pads for support, deliberately making the shoulders wider, with a slightly curved barge and a smooth waist and hip line, presenting a classical style unique to Milan.
What do you think of the current domestic bespoke suits market?
The domestic custom suit service is still focused on wedding clients, and there are many young enthusiasts who are very positive overall. The guests all have strong opinions about the clothes they want
Do you think consumers in different geographic areas have different preferences?
Classic menswear atmosphere in Shanghai is very mature and customers in the Shanghai care about the balance and body of the clothes, while customers from some other places prefer to try different flavors of clothes.
What is your attitude towards the handmade percentage craftsmanship in the suits?
In our opinion, there is no high or low manual content of the suit. I have visited many old Italian tailors and their clothes are hand finished by a set of production system, everything is done by hand except for the front and back pieces of the patchwork and the provincial way. Of course there are some individual stores making a few clothes without machine finished as a gimmick, but in general, everyone is following the traditional hand-made system to finish one set of clothes after another.
Which tailors do you admire?
I appreciate Brio’s clothes in China, and their founder has a unique understanding of how to present the Italian style of suits.
I am still very loyal to many famous stores in Milan, such as Satoki of Cresent, whose control of the classical Milanese style is very precise, and whose lines and proportions are very natural.
What’s the plan for the near future?
Continue to follow the Italian hand-made standard to complete each outfit.
Price starts from 9800 RMB for two piece suit, CMT.