In welted (loose definition including Goodyear and Blake construction) shoes field, French brands are quite interesting. Let us first put John Lobb aside as that it is regarded English or French never ends an argument. Two prominent brands Berluti and Corthay were loved by a limited community and known more like high street fashion. The same level brand Aubercy is much less known but whoever tasted its shoes falls in love with. Move to middle range, many capable players stand up, such as Altan, Marc Guyot and Caulaincourt, their daring patterns and patina draw loyal customers to them. Further down, Septieme Largeur is the king with amazing price and superb patina and leather quality. So French brands stand out at any price point.
But in Frenchmen’s eyes, which brand is the real love? The answer does not exist in above brands, but J.M.Weston. I think people love it mostly for its quality and durability on top of the global iconic models 180, Golf and Demi Chasse.
Surely J.M.Weston failed in China and tried a dip in US, in other countries of Europe, it is not so well received.
When I tried to understand this brand, it officially label itself elegant upper and beast bottom. Sarcastically, iconic such as 180 and Golf cannot be called elegant, until 598 Demi Chasse, the definition is backed. Double leather sole is the beast bottom, no proble, but why the split toe derby is elegant? No, it is not the patter, but the last.
On my pair of 392, the definition pushes to limit further.
Last
I don’t know too much about lasts of J.M.Weston, and information on lining does not contain last number. Even that the last of most iconic 180 is 41 is unknown to me, and maybe other more. This pair sits on last F3. If we can filter the shape of sole, and only look at the upper shape, you can tell how elegant it is and even more refined than last 7000 from John Lobb.
Pattern
Plain toe derby, do you agree?
Clearly, the design point on this pair is how lace area opens. I remember when I first met this design, it was a bespoke shoe from Ramon Cuberta. I was confused and did not have an idea this was Derby or Oxford. Finally I drew a conclusion that the botton end of two ears are not connected, this is Derby.
Construction
Even the pattern is so eye catching, the construction does not lose a bit. It is not only double sole, but double stitched!
But if you think that is it, slow down, full of fake actions!
Profile view, it is 360 degree Storm welted, and contrary to normal storm welt, the stitches are vertical to bottom, not parallel.
But is it still Storm welted? Maybe it is stitch down?
But still, it is different to stitch down as the two stitches are on the same plain.
If we leave that layer of “welt” alone, the sole is quite straightforward, welt, middle sole and outer leather sole.
But when I look inside of the shoes, I am appalled! What the hell? This pair is Blake stitched? All outer welt and stitches are all fake? That is really a great fake action! I am totally lost.
Leather
J.M.Weston used to own the great French tannery Du Puy, and its leather quality is always superb. This pair is not so impressive as the coating is obvious.
Out Sole
J.M.Weston always implement this square toe, the slot for stitches can be seen, and the edge blackening.
Except logo, J.M.Weston has special size mark on the waist, size on the left and width right.
Details
Let us mesmerize how to read lining information of J.M.Weston. First digital of first line indicates year of production, and this pair was made in 2013. Second line, F3 is last, 101 is black boxcalf, 392 is model number, 90 is the construction. I cannot find clear definition of 90, and I suspect it is Blake stitched.
Conclusion
I never expected J.M.Weston loves to play so much!