My Shoe Collection, A Derby from a.testoni Studium Line

a.testoni is not a player in niche market anymore and opens a lot of mono-brand boutiques around the world. I believe its current customer base does not care about different collections/lines from it, but we, shoe enthusiasts do. Ironically, even we do, most have no idea how many collections a.testoni offers and what they are.

Are Saint Crispin’s Shoes Handmade?

Austrian shoemaker Saint Crispin’s is very sought after among shoe enthusiasts. Except its unique aesthetics, its high handwork percentage is also an important aspect. According to its promotion most people would think Saint Crispin’s are 95% handmade, which means all steps are taken by hand except upper stitching done by sewing machine. But is it

Carlos Santos独特乐福Spade开箱

Carlos Santos有一款乐福,Elliot,是它全球卖得最好的乐福,我店里也有三个皮革及颜色选择。Elliot在我眼里,第一眼很难和其他家的区分开来,虽然它的围裙区域使用的是John Lobb Lopez的缝制方式,便士开孔又拿来的J.M.Weston 180的形状然后再变得狭长一点,但始终太过普通。普通,也许就是它卖得最好的原因。 Post Views: 389

Carlos Santos奶白色战地靴开箱

Carlos Santos x fp FW2022走的是绝骚路线。Carlos Santos在经典男装这个领域的起家,是从法国开始的,所以设计上,其实是非常天马行空的。而楦型,则从时尚品牌取经,不管造型如何,宽度较为友好,然后舒适性非常不错,不仅仅我这么说,不少人都这么反馈的。 战地靴,大白话就是Edward Green的Galway,我不知道为什么大家这么喜欢抄袭这个款式,我理解不了它香在哪。 Post Views: 466

固特异工艺之争

固特异是缝制鞋的一种工艺,可能由于比较早让媒体宣传的,是英国的那些老牌鞋厂,宣传他们的时候,可以借什么皇室,贵族等等词汇。作为资深玩家,或者工艺控,是对这种宣传口径十分鄙视的,但不好意思,大众最吃的,就是这一套。 英国这些品牌,都是使用的固特异工艺,使得大家可能默认缝制鞋就是固特异。从这一点来说,不得不感慨得媒体者得天下。英国和意大利,哪个国家才是缝制皮鞋制造业大国?从产销量来说,意大利肯定赢了。而在意大利,不能说没有固特异工艺,但永远只在从属地位。也就是说他们本质里倾向于布雷克缝制和意大利固特异工艺(我们后面再说什么叫意大利固特异)。 Post Views: 754