在曾经顶级客户圈子中,皮鞋领域有三个鞋匠是最为认可的,对于他们来说,鞋匠的名气不重要,因为他们本人都是社会的顶部人士,但是鞋子是否做得舒适,优雅,他们太有发言权了,一辈子都在使用最顶级的东西。 这个神圣铁三角是John Lobb,Gatto和Nikolaus Tuczek。 Post Views: 64
Author: FU Pei
When it comes to Meermin, what is your first impression? Price killer? Although there is nothing wrong, I think it is a bit underestimating the brand. Through paying attention to it year by year, I think its core competitiveness now lies in leather. Meermin is absolutely above average in leather optional richness, and at its
1,缝制鞋守陵人;2,可持续发展(不浪费) 守陵人,是取材我十多年前看过的小说,《我在新政当守陵人》,那是一本和盗墓有关的小说。我这里的借用,有些不同。 关于缝制鞋的未来,可能尚未有共识,在我聊的许多人中,大部分的观点都是不太看好。我曾经是相对中立的,但是现在,可能越来越“悲观”。说悲观,是指我认为它在走向消亡,只是这个过程的长短,而打上引号,则是我们应该以发展的眼光来看事物,历史的向前有其必然和偶然,我们应该接受和适应。所以不必有强烈的情绪(悲观)。 Post Views: 62
固特异工艺,很多人第一次听到,自然就会想到固特异轮胎。嘿,你别说,这个固特异缝制机器的发明人,确实就和固特异轮胎有关系。因为创立固特异轮胎公司的Charles Goodyear的儿子,Charles Goodyear Jr就是这个发明者。 然而,发明机器,和使用机器,不是一回事。 真正让这个机器广为使用,甚至成为一种工艺的代称的人,是法国人Joseph Fenestrier。 Post Views: 60
很多商家在销售缝制鞋的时候,会使用手工鞋这个概念。既然叫手工鞋,那代表鞋子应该绝大部分是靠手工来制作的,就好像全手工西服,不能大部分缝线都是缝纫机干的。如果有人跳出来说,缝纫机是人在踩,所以也算手工,那我敬他是个鬼才。 Post Views: 70
我没有去过胶粘鞋工厂,不太清楚是否鞋子出厂前也有打蜡的工序,但我知道在我去过的工坊里,都是有这一步的。 这一步的功能当然是让鞋子在货架上,或者客人收到的时候,就觉得鞋子的光泽度很好。这是最重要的,另一个功能就是鞋蜡也可以起到护理鞋子,或者防止湿气进入皮革的作用。 Post Views: 76
如果说穿一双固特异鞋是高端的表现,那么带上French Toe Plate(法式头铁,和法式舌吻一样魅惑),就肯定是人中赤兔,马中吕布了。 美国博客Stitchdown有过一篇文章讲过程的,看这里: Shoe Toe Taps: Everything You Ever Wanted to Know – Stitchdown 然而我今天的步骤,比它还要多几个,一探究竟。 Post Views: 91
If dress shoes have deep creases, they look a little pitiful, and I feel very uncomfortable. Some people think that the shoes have creases is because the leather is not good. Some people even think that good dress shoes don’t crease at all. This is completely ridiculous. Post Views: 4,632
Suede leather is an important part of men’s shoes, and the most common model with this leather is Chukka Boots. In recent years, all styles of shoes in spring and summer have fallen in love with suede. Post Views: 3,681
There is an official answer to how to care dress shoes, but I think there are two problems in this answer. One is that it only cares the upper, not the sole, not to mention the midsole; and the other is that it takes a lot of time and energy. So I think it is