行业的进步,离不开竞争与交流。过去3到5年内,国内高品质裁缝店的涌现,可以说让中国的定制服装水准有了质的提高。同时,也有许多人到国外学习,将原汁原味的风格带回来,比如张潇,比如Riccardo。 今天专访的对象,同样是在意大利学艺的定制裁缝,欧阳。 一起看看他的故事。 Post Views: 458
Many people may know that this was a Savile Row house, and it had a long history, but why haven’t you heard of any bespoke works? Because it’s not a bespoke tailoring house at all! Not a bespoke tailoring house but on Savile Row? That’s right, it’s a marketing trick. Post Views: 2,341
这是我在淘宝鞋店里被问到的问题。 虽然皮鞋生意有了团队和不同的分工,但是客服,我一直不愿意交给别人做。因为我特别喜欢和同好交流的感觉,可以增加视野。同时在销售的一线,也比较能获得一手信息。 这是一个技术问题,虽然我不是做鞋的,但在不同的工坊和工厂,也看过很多次制作流程了,还是了解那些工序会用到胶水的。 Post Views: 463
这个名字我在PermanentStyle和PutThisOn这两个博客上读到过,但从来没有专门的采访文章。最近,对定制鞋匠William Ede-Laborde的专访中,William说Jason Amesbury是他最尊重的鞋匠,而他在今年刚刚离世。我也没有机会对这位伟大的鞋匠进行专访了,所以在网络上搜集了所有我能搜集到的信息,和大家分享。 Post Views: 323
国内拥有自己工坊的定制店,并不多,大部分都是发到工厂或者其他人家的工坊来代工的。当然,这不是说这些定制店就没有对自己的产品有见解和更高的要求。举个皮鞋领域的例子,西班牙固特异鞋厂Sendra,就给各个地区的品牌代工,但是这些品牌,仍然有自己的特征。 张利的工坊在全国都是很知名的,而且是相对高端的工坊,很多耳熟能详的品牌都在使用。 和张利女士较早就加了微信,有过些许交流,但一直未曾谋面。知晓她在虹桥世界中心有个工作室,心心念念好久,终于得偿所愿。 Post Views: 593
我有两个博客,一个是个人网站fupei.net,一个是知乎专栏,分工来说,fupei.net对海外,知乎对国内。也许在知乎上,大家没有看到那个分类,但是在个人网站上,我对博客的文章,有明确的系列。 Post Views: 1,139
This is a Chinese customer’s order to Maftei. It has been more than 10 months from the first foot measurement to the receipt of shoes. There have been 4 pairs of trial shoes in the middle, which is why it has been so long. Post Views: 2,737
这个问题,我毫不羞愧地说,我私下问过胡椒盐大佬好几次。 同样的问题,我也问过一些主理人,倒不是说他们藏私,而是他们给我讲的,我总觉得不透,或者无法完全吸收。 举个例子,上海W.W.Chan的包师傅,是位非常愿意分享的大师,每次和他交流,他都告诉我许多细节,比如怎么是合身,甚至很多制作细节。兴许是我水准差太远,又或者完全没有制作的基础,所以这些内容很难内化。 Post Views: 461
There is a boutique in South Korea, Shoe Fever, which collaborated with Maftei. It is said that every time the shoes arrived in the store, all were sold within a week. The founder, Alexandru Maftei, fled to Austria from Romania. After successfully breaking through the world in Austria and gaining the recognition of many high-class
Lopez is arguably one of the most famous loafers, and it was selected from John Lobb’s bespoke shoes that became the earliest style of ready-to-wear shoes. The fame of Lopez is of course inseparable from the signature of John Lobb, but it is indeed the final choice of many gourmets. Let’s take a look. Post